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Fashion August, 8 2011

Henrik Vibskov Spring/Summer 2012 Collection Presentation

Henrik Vibskov presented this weekend his new Spring/Summer 2012 Collection in Copenhagen. ‘The Axis of Henrik Vibskov’ was once again an innovative way of showcasing his line.

Henrik Vibskov categorically constitutes the exception. Season after season he imposes not only with his visionary conceptualism, elaborate fabric processings and witful experimentalism, he also keeps surging forward in measures of fashion presentation and conversion.

This years show once more rather had the air of an art or theatre performance than that of a classic runway moment. Set on a public green space between accurately trimmed privet hedges, squired by dim light, spheric sounds and enchanting bird chirrups the spectator got dragged into a postmodern Lewis Carroll momentum.

The ostensible stage, divided into a diagramed 4 room mansion with turquoise doors was equipped with a central axis turned by 4 black-clad cohorts, compelling the models to walk from room to room, open door after door, their black stylized berets and double-framed spectacles indicating a cryptic mission.

A comment on the revolving door of life? The perpetually recurring fashion-cycles? Immanent border violations? Whatever Vibskovs intentions may have been, the deferring circles of his fashion-panoptikum induced a pleasant vertigo on the audience, making them receptive to his rich and wrought material and colour sheme.

Ranging from muted blacks and greys to his character technicolor palette he was systematically playing with dualities (eg. a tie-die suit or obstructive wooden dowels jutting out from prominent shoulders). His trademark knits and hosiery alternated between multicolor melange and graphic Bauhaus, balancing the collection to be modest and salient at the same time.

Photography: Micky Richter/Highsnobiety.com
Text: Nathini van der Meer

A full collection view and behind the scenes look follow after the jump.

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