Maybe the best way to describe the taste of this superb beer from Dogfish Head is as a nuanced and spiced Coltrane riff on an Orange Creamsicle. As we remember it, that otherworldly deliciousness that came our way through the window of the ice cream truck blew our putty minds—and here we are again. That is not to say that this beer tastes like that Popsicle. Rather, it tastes magical to adult taste buds the way that specific Popsicle did to our young ones.

This makes sense, of course, as Dogfish Head, more than almost any other brewery, approaches the craft with a childlike sense of wonder and possibility. Take the process here as evidence: Red & White ale is brewed with orange peel and coriander with Pinot Noir juice added at the end. Then 11-percent of the brew is matured in Pinot barrels while the rest is aged in oak. Bonus: the beer literally glows orange in the light.

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