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Fashion January, 29 2013

Tillmann Lauterbach Fall/Winter 2013 Collection

Set against a selection of artworks made solely for the show, models paraded
German-born designer Tillmann Lauterbach’s Fall/Winter „Joy Division“ collection
down the Rue de Commine runway. Throughout the show, we caught a stunning
exercise in straight-lines and minimalist cuts further highlighted by a rather
tuned-down color palette that included hues of grey, blue, and brown. Sneakers
were paired with decontructed suits and Japanese Kimono inspired coats,
resulting in a smart yet functional sportwear-inspired silhouette.

However, only off the runway – particularly at his showroom located in a narrow
Marais street – were we able to get a notion of the collection’s overwhelmingly
exquisite quality and its underlying concept. A carefully curated selection of
luxurious fabrics and materials, including silk, neoprene, Pescada Amarela fish
leather, and alpaca, lend the collection its distinctive look and feel. Outrageously
cozy fabrics and buttery soft leather makes any sane person have second
thoughts about actually wearing these immaculate pieces.

He strives for a wardrobe that works in different environments – from formal
business meetings to commuting on a train, or hanging out at a bar or club. He
does so, however, without losing track of the garment’s functional aspects „In
Winter, I find myself freezing outside, but as soon as I board the train for
example, I’m way too warm. What shall I wear?“ Based on this dilemma, he
created a range of insulated yet highly breathable staples such as the Laser
cut wool mac, for which one of Austria’s oldest manufacturers, Loden-Steiner,
supplied the wool felt. The coat features a distinctive hole pattern that was
laser-punched in Italy. Lauterbach counts a number of suppliers that mirror
his artisanal approach: „We work with established suppliers from all over
Europe, some of which are still family owned.“ Fusing the old and the new is the
cornerstone of his Euro-Asian aesthetic, strongly inspired by his frequent trips to
China where he was appointed creative director of fashion brand JNBY in 2009.

Another highlight from Lauterbach’s Fall/Winter collection is without a doubt
the oversized knit sweater. The soft cashmere sweater’s elaborate cable knit
pattern is laid against a barely visible printed „X,“ creating the anarchy symbol
when seen from a distance and subtly hinting at the collection’s theme. „It’s
about the concept of anarchy and how you perceive life. ‘Joy Division’ harnesses
the energy of the past and creates a modern style.“

The current Spring/Summer 2013 collection is already available at the official Tillmann Lauterbach web store.

 

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