The tipping point at which the underground scene hits the overground scene, or where the underground becomes the overground, or when the overground pillages the underground is a fine line in most cities ranking high on the sartorial scale. In Berlin, ‘Hipster or Bum’, is a favourite guessing game enjoyed by family and friends alike. Last weekend I took a trip back to my adopted hometown London for a little holiday, and during my short time there I witnessed a bunch of trends I thought had evaporated along with the attitudes that came with them the first time round. Who’s to blame for all this? Who made it totally legit for girls to start wearing tracksuit bottoms on a regular? Why is there a new, disproportionately hyped, food joint opening every other week, is it just to provide Instagram fodder we can wet our pants over with how many heart shaped likes the photo gets? Why are people so obsessed with distinguishing North, South, East and West London districts like their youth are worlds apart when actually everybody looks and acts the fucking same anyway? London, I love you, but I think you need a time out. Your hipsters and their favourite brands are the only thing holding things together by a thread. Come back to me when you’ve taken the time to reassess your values and what made you one of the best cities in the world in the first place.
Stone Island Shadow Project Parka
When I was around 17 I worked in a shop back home that heavily stocked Stone Island, the secondary line from Italian sportswear brand C.P Company. Those familiar with the brand may know that their logo is often signified by a patch on the upper arm, removable via buttons. This was unfortunate as it resulted in inconvenient thefts; people were that desperate to own a piece of Stone Island, even if it was just a little cotton patch that was totally useless unless you buttoned it on to a spare shirt and let it flap freely like a plastic bag caught in a tree. Judging by the London flagship store where theft isn’t really an option when there are more sales assistants than actual items on display, the clientele has shifted. And Londoners do need a decent coat that works hard at protecting them from the unrelenting wind and rain, it’s a step on from a Barbour coat which has the same practicalities, but not as much thieving street cred. Buy it online from End Clothing.
Mr Natty’s Hair Pomade Hair Wax
There’s usually only ever two men’s hairstyles on rotation in London hairdressers. And at the moment, the main one on the streets is the long on top combed back undercut style. Think Christopher Walken in Pulp Fiction or Michael Pitt in Boardwalk Empire, except don’t because you’re neither of those guys and you definitely won’t make it look as good. Be warned, it’s hard to pull off, too short on the sides and it becomes a glorified Jarhead, but if you get it right, it can look pretty cool. If you’re gonna commit use a tried and tested Made in England product, Mr Natty’s Hair Pomade should be just the ticket. Buy it from his online store.
Palace Skateboards White Jungle Dream T Shirt
Palace Skateboards are one of the increasingly few British street wear brands with a grounded subcultural background that are becoming increasingly more interesting to follow. Their exclusive ranges are becoming more prolific with the constant presence of their basic t shirt designs, which are no less popular than the rest of their collection, which this season actually includes a full on shell suit track top and trouser. Whether they’re taking the piss or not you’ve gotta give it to them for pushing this trend, because the truth is it’s more than likely to kick off. Find this tee in store or online from The Hide Out.
Universal Works Weekend Shirt
Hipsters, London hipsters in particular, love an unjustified culturally appropriated trend. Navajo has been around for a while but I’m pretty sure the Indonesian textile Ikat is still up for grabs. Universal Works have worked this one pretty well into this shirt, so if it were to be stocked in Urban Outfitters at least you know it would definitely be in the high-end boutique designer corner. That trend of wearing shirts Cholo style, with only the top button done up, we totally called it way back in January, and it’s peaking hard in London at the moment. Why just show off one thing when you can show off two things at the same time, as well as champion a trend that Highsnobiety called? You’re doing good man, already you’re like 3 points above all the other herbs. Buy this shirt now from End Clothing.
Wood Wood Eland Pants
A strong display of ankle might be the male version of cleavage; it’s thought that it’s more attractive than they it is in reality, it’s something to build your outfit around and sometimes it’s just inappropriate. Nevertheless, you’re nobody worth knowing in London unless your trousers are swinging way above you’re ankles like a schoolboy whose mother hasn’t had a chance to buy him a new pair of a school trousers since his last growth spurt. At least it gives ample opportunity to indulge in a strong marl sock competition with your peers, which comes in close as second favorite past time after ‘Hipster or Bum’. This Wood Wood pair are nicely understated and the thick 100% cotton means your trouser leg turn ups won’t unfold, can you imagine the horror? Buy them now from Goodhood.
Sneakers are sneakers, all major cities reserve a strong infatuation with them, but London really falls for footwear trends overnight. A couple of years ago you couldn’t even try to dance in an east london club without accidentally stepping on a pair of Clarks Desert Boots. And before too long it trickled down onto the back street high street where knock-off copies were making a bigger raise than Clarks themselves. The Clarks Wallabee is already sneaking its way onto the feet of so many Londoners, and I kind of like it. I can’t deny a moccasin style which the Wallabee shoe is most definitely inspired by, but makes it so much more wearable for when you’re not an indigenous person of North America. Buy yours now directly from Clarks online store.