OTHER/shop London offer us a first look at this set of exclusive Our Legacy Spring/Summer 2014 images shot by friend of the label, Ola Rindal. Part of the new Chronicles series, we also get to hear from Our Legacy designer Christopher Nying who talks through the visual aspect of the brand, the relationship between creative directors and photographers as well as the idea of the “Our Legacy Man.” Watch out for more designer chat over at OTHER.
The title of this season’s collection is ‘Radiant Flux’, can you explain the meaning behind the reference?
We looked at the idea of “overexposing” the clothes. This inspiration was taken from photography/polaroids that were not correctly developed, and I wanted to adapt this feeling into garments, so we faded indigos almost into white, tie-dyed nylons and used the idea that the garment almost looks fragile, or ‘wrongly developed’. Together with this part of the collection, we also started to make protective garments for contrast, or at least, garments with the look of protective clothing, in order to attain the idea of a chemical laboratory, where some garments feel like liquids or ingredients or powder, and where some garments feel protective.
Our Legacy lookbooks are often collaborations with art photographers, is the process of working with a creative outside the fashion world important to your vision for the brand?
Yes, right now it has been important for the brand to get different energy and perspective to what we do with the clothing. We would love to do this more but as always time is short in fashion. Another interesting collaboration was with Akane Moriyama, a fabric artist, who made an installation for our stores interpreting ‘Radiant Flux’ into space and environment.
Is the collaborator involved at the conception of the collection or once the collection is produced?
Normally it starts for him/her when a collection is produced and sampled, but it would be highly interesting to start a concept with a collaborator from the ground.
This season you have chosen to work with Ola Rindal, what is it about his work you are drawn to?
Ola Rindal balances sharp and diffused photography which makes him very versatile. He is spontaneous and many of his images question more than tell.
We’re big fans of the aesthetic direction of Our Legacy imagery, the suggestion of clothes in the images rather than conventional lookbooks is far more interesting, is this a conscious decision?
Yes, since we don’t do catwalk shows, it was an early decision to communicate in a different way. Having Photography books in mind, we really believed that this will balance our product and expression in the best way. We think there is an energy there that matches what we do.
When working with a collaborator, are they given creative freedom or is the art direction still initiated by you.
It’s different from time to time. But while shooting we need to trust the photographer, even if he/she has some kind of brief before, we normally leave them to get another expression or expectation so that they feel free to explore. One of the first we did, with Vivianne Sassen of SOL&LUNA, was completely her direction. We sent her clothes and she played around in her way, then we produced the book editing her images with our clothes.
In this season’s lookbook you chose to work with only one model, is the character presented within the images important, is this your perception of the Our Legacy man.
It’s complex when it comes to models or “the face,” since we normally don’t work towards a certain style. We focus on the product, colors, treatments, material first, and try to get a product concept. Since we were never very interested in “Iconic Style” – there is no certain face for Our Legacy. Of course we like Axel (Spring/Summer 2014) Nash and Tobias (Fall/Winter 2014) because they have character, so we try to look at character rather than a pretty face.
In our experience the Our Legacy man is not a typical fashion consumer but someone who understands considered, timeless dressing, what is it that drew you to creating, what we perceive as non-fashion collections. We like the idea of creating something that appeals to both aware customers and less aware customers. To create dimensions, clothing that can be seen in different contexts or environments. We would like to call it non-segregated style, where you present simple garments as a grey melange sweatshirt (the first piece we ever did) to get different meanings, not only for one occasion. We think it’s important to leave the freedom of choice – we do not try to choose for you.