Known for his contemporary handcrafted ready-to-wear label, German-Persian designer Boris Bidjan Saberi
has carved a name for himself as a highly original and technically skilled visionary of modern menswear. Often employing innovative yet ancient processes to garments, the designer’s signature aesthetic fuses deconstructed tailoring with streetwear references. The brand has since become synonymous with pushing boundaries through meticulous techniques and experimentation.
Last year the designer introduced 11 by Boris Bidjan Saberi, a lifestyle line that places emphasis on technical fabrics, practicality and durability. Taking design cues from the main line’s expertise on silhouettes, 11 delivers functional streetwear for every day. While the namesake line is rooted in organic processes, 11 is a way for the brand to explore a more performance-focused style.
What is the concept behind the 11 line and what was the reason behind its creation?
11 is a 24/7 lifestyle line which draws inspiration from the essential garments that we all have in our wardrobe. It finds its balance between street references and tailoring skills. We interpret these key shapes with our own vision and concept of style.
The main influence from Boris Bidjan Saberi’s main line comes from a real knowledge of tailoring, which has been achieved over years and gives our designs a different cut and special feel. In that sense we sculpt our garments and analyze the materials in every detail. Everything is thought and conceived with real attention in order to achieve a perfect and long-lasting piece.
Boris is known to be a numerology enthusiast. Was there a particular reason 11 was chosen for the line over any other number?
Boris was born on the 11th of September and it has always been there as the symbolic number of the Boris Bidjan Saberi brand. It’s also the first master number, the first repeating number, and the first number which can’t be counted on human hands.
It seemed to exactly express the concept behind the line – two parallel lines, number ones, as 11. Same values, different needs. Using the numeric signs to evoke 11 also gives freedom for people to pronounce the name of the brand in their own language.
Compared to the main line, which is rooted in more organic processes and materials, 11 uses synthetic tech fabrics and more advanced processing methods. What materials do you work with and what benefits and purpose do they serve in the collection?
The main line is definitely about arts and craftsmanship – always digging for ancient techniques and treatments to give an ever more special, essential feel to the garments.
Being a 24/7 lifestyle line, 11 focuses more on technological and industrial innovations. Hyper-functional and long-lasting pieces with specific needs have to be cut in suitable materials. If you want to design a real waterproof raincoat you have to seek out synthetic fabrics, and the textile industry today offers an incredible range of material.
What are some of the innovative processes and experimentation methods you have been using?
Whether it’s for BBS or for 11, we pay strong attention to the finishes of each garment. We reinterpret the material, give it a one of a kind feel, and somehow we make it come alive by caring about all of these details. We develop our own industrial finishes and do a lot of garment dying, printing and embroidery that makes 11 products very unique.
11’s logo-driven pieces are something new for the BBS brand. What was the inspiration behind incorporating them into the collection?
The main line has its own way of playing with graphical elements – it is more about subtleties using cuts, darts, and the fabric’s wefts. It plays around tailoring elements. But we’ve always loved prints, they are a key part of street clothing and 11 is the perfect playground to express those creative wishes.
We love the fact that a print, a logo, or an all-over pattern can affect the way you perceive a shape. We love blurring the borders between cuts and motifs, that’s how we play with them and try to come up with something different.
There has been a strong resurgence of technical sports-influenced fashion in the last few years. Do you see this as a permanent change for the menswear industry or simply a passing trend?
Somehow there are two aspects to these sports influences in fashion. One affects products aesthetically and can be seen as a trend – a temporary outcome.
The second aspect is the actual focus on technical matters in sports attire, and that is pushing the industry forward with the development of new products and processes. The industry is progressing from this as technology gives us new tools for creation. That is a real change.
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