A longtime favourite round these parts, E.Tautz continue to combine Savile Row sensibilities and precision cuts with contemporary, colorful takes on classic menswear. Headed up by tailor and designer Patrick Grant, “well proportioned, well balanced and unfussy in keeping with the sporting and military traditions,” while the label indulges in a fair amount of old school elegance, its success lies in its ability to remain fresh and accessible. We talk to Grant ahead of next week’s show, Spring/Summer 2015 mixing the familiar with the strange.
Tell us a little about your preparation for SS15, when does it all begin and what’s the starting point?
It usually starts a little before the Fall/Winter show, the closer you get to show time the more your head begins to fill with new ideas. Once the show is done we start working for real, researching the main themes of the new collection, visiting museums and libraries and doing a heap of picture research from my own books and the image archives. One idea will often lead to many others that are then assembled and edited until you have one strong, harmonious feeling for the collection.
How would you sum up SS15?
Hopefully much of it feels somehow familiar, especially to Brits, but also slightly strange. I would like the show to capture a sense of oddity and humour and a bittersweet feeling. Hopelessness and empowerment.
Can you give us an insight into some of the details?
There are elements very much from the seaside vernacular, obvious things, and some subtler, like the shape of Summer naval dress jackets or the arrangement of zips and snaps on classic rocker wear, or the split tail of the M1951 parka.
Who did you have in mind when designing the collection? And would you say you generally design for yourself or others?
I don’t think you can ever design just for one person, or just for yourself. Personal tastes are just too narrow. But you design with one single sense in mind, this sense that comes from all of the work you put in at the beginning of the collection. It needs to be something new, but something that people who share your ideas, on everything from art to social history, will understand and want to follow you into.
Is there one piece you’re really excited to unveil?
It changes as we’re putting the show together. You will put a piece you weren’t feeling so positive about with something else and all of a sudden it comes alive and you think it’s the best thing you’ve ever seen. And this happens hourly.