More of our LC:M previews and the second to focus on MAN, the joint initiative between Topman and Fashion East nurturing new talent, as today we hear from London-based Nicomede Talavera. Another graduate of Saint Martins, following stints at both Lanvin Homme and 3.1 Philip Lim, Spring/Summer 2014 saw the launch of his first full collection including a 7-piece accessory line for Eastpak. Promising a “raw direction” for Spring 2015, Talavera offers a look at what’s to come after the jump.
Tell us a little about your preparation for SS15, when does it all begin and what’s the starting point?
Louise Bourgouis has been a big inspiration this season. In particular her ‘Fabric Works.’ My focus this season was to take my work in more of a raw direction and to inject a lot of movement and texture.
How would you sum up SS15?
Raw. Optical. Movement. Texture. Graphic. Lines.
Can you give us an insight into some of the details?
I have worked with Lampo again on a zip puller that is exclusive to the collection. The puller and zips are all matte black and used on many of the garments. There are also a lot of raw edges which will natural fray and provide a welcome contrast to the clean, strong shapes.
Who did you have in mind when designing the collection? And would you say you generally design for yourself or others?
When designing I always think of my customer and see each season as a progression from the last, what can I offer that I didn’t offer last time? What was missing? What can I improve? It’s a constant journey. As much as I connect to all of my collections and pieces, they are not a self-indulgent project.
Is there one piece you’re particularly excited to unveil?
Yes all of it! I’m really happy with how the collection has turned out – especially all of the textiles techniques.
Anyone else on the schedule you’re looking forward to checking out?
Yes, lots. I think LC:M has picked up a lot of momentum over the last few seasons and many of the new menswear designers are successfully carving out their own aesthetic and expressing their points of view. It’s definitely getting better each season.