With London Collections: Men well underway, local boy Craig Green took to the stage to unveil his Fall/Winter 2016 collection to a packed audience of industry insiders. Green’s highly conceptual work has captivated the global fashion press, drawing many – well deserved, mind you – comparisons to the almighty Rei Kawakubo.

While last season’s collection injected Green’s avant-garde aesthetic with eye-popping splashes of color and some playful motifs, this time around his vision was a whole lot more mature. Perhaps that’s a sign Green is evolving from Central Saint Martins’ wunderkind graduate into a real high fashion proposition – one with global ambitions.

A troupe of boys (or “gathering of introspective dreamers” – press release’s words, not mine) marched down the runway to a delicate orchestral soundtrack, dressed in Green’s trademark draped, intricate garments. The most noticeable development from previous seasons was Green’s move into a more demure palette, as militaristic khaki and olive drab were used alongside rough, striped fabrics that from a distance looked like some sort of futuristic vision of sleepwear.

The real compelling side to Green’s work – the part that delights fashion-forward buyers and intellectual editors alike – is his deconstructionist approach to clothing. Garments’ utilitarian details are completely abstracted and made useless – like on the stitched-together biker jacket and belted field coats – while what would normally be superfluous ribbons and button closures are sometimes the only things stopping Green’s clothes from completely falling apart.

Indeed, the majority of pieces on show looked like something you’d see in a performance art piece or sculpture than worn in any sort of regular, day-to-day activity. Gushing rolls of loose material – another Green motif – only added to the drama. You really have to wonder how much work must go into assembling these beautiful abstractions of everyday clothes.

It wasn’t all theatrics, though – between the ribbons, knots and tangled panels you could spot some highly wearable (for Green’s standards, anyway) pieces. There were boxy sweaters presented with ribbed textures and muted colorways that felt very modern – likewise the flowing, loose trousers and low-key (again, for Green’s standards) jackets that only had a few extra details.

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