Continuing our coverage of London Collections Men, we turn our sights to Danish designer Astrid Andersen as she presents her FW16 collection. Sticking to her guns with a collection that flaunted the visionary’s trademark luxe-meets-street aesthetic, Andersen took a moment to “look within” this season with a deeply personal line that was “all about intuition.”
Ahead of Andersen’s couture line of furs, which will debut in Paris later this month, the crux behind this season’s range was the attention to fabrics. From silky quilted nylons, technical fine-gage polyamide, thick wools and, of course, fur, Andersen called upon century-old UK mill Linton Tweeds to construct a collection that managed to merge conventional fabrics with contemporary menswear.
A common practice in Astrid’s work is her ability to assert traditional notions of alpha male masculinity with a femme-tinged flare, but this season marked somewhat of a departure from this template. While frou frou touches like pistachio pastels, feather-stuffed gauntlets, cropped cuts and golden lacing, worn by a troupe of brawny, roid-fueled models, made occasional appearances, FW16 took things down a notch – for Astrid Andersen standards, that is – in the form of all-gray woolen tracksuits with popper pockets, notch-lapel overcoats and zipper-ornamented overalls.
Astrid’s market is a niche one; her work is highlighted by its daring aesthetic exercises that have redefined sportswear in such a way that it’s been deemed as personally irrelevant to many – the various clusters of aging editors gazing with half-closed eyelids along the front row, for one. But the tameness of FW16, compared to her previous collections, demonstrated a surprising exercise of inclusivity for the designer. While it would be presumptuous to say that the bar has been risen sky high in the mass appeal factor, the pieces would surely come into consideration as outfit choices for a at least a few new consumers. Me, for one.
Be sure to stream the punishing, trap and techno-fueled catwalk soundtrack that boomed throughout the speakers during the show, which was created in collaboration with French electronic DJ/producer wizard Brodinski in the Red Bull Catwalk Studio.
For more L:CM reviews, check out Nasir Mazhar‘s cyber goth meets sportswear FW16 collection.
- Photography: Nico Amarca / Highsnobiety.com