Interview by Jeff Carvalho and Nick Schonberger.
I'm going to name a few brands that are discussed in Style Deficit Disorder. The one I would like to start with is Hysteric Glamor.
TG - Hysteric Glamor tapped into this new culture that was evolving in the early 90s. It was for the teenager girl that was a bit more rebellious in terms of her dress... someone went with their mom to Hysteric Glamour and the mom wouldn't get it.
It was kind of an American movie with like seventies metal bands, but with this girlie look to it. It was this amazing mix of funky cultures thrown together. And addition to that, their great advertisements really gave it this distinct image for Japanese girls. You also had a special connection to CUTIE magazine which would go on to influence Gewn Stefani aesthetic that people recognize when they think of Japanese fashion now. Hysteric Glamour is one of the leader in terms of that sort of fashion.
Cool "kawaii" clothing.
Comme des Garcons.
TG - Some fashion journalists call Rei Kawakubo one of the most important designers of the century. They put her up there with Coco Chanel. I was really thrilled to have them as part of the book. They actually did start in Harajuku in 1969.
I think Rei Kawakubo in one way is part of the first generation of the Harajuku... really representative of these strong creative personalities in Japan after WW2 that became influential internationally. She already had her brand for 10 years before deciding to present in the West in Paris in 1983.
[The press] labelled it "Hiroshima Chic."
The reason that collection was mind blowing was because it was all black clothing... all black eye makeup. The aesthetic was something so foreign to what we in Western fashion connect to as fashion. It was completely anti-glamourous, boxy, and didn't make the sex beautiful. It was a whole new idea and to present that on the runway was shocking.
She has gone on to build one of the biggest fashion businesses in Japan. Season after season she comes out with these collections that challenge fashion and designers. She has influence in the way she designs as well as how she has decided to express the brand in boutique design; creating temporary shops which are now becoming a trend. She [has done] guerilla shops in Warsaw Poland, Berlin... selling back stock.
Comme Des Garcons is always edgy. She is an amazing business woman and force in fashion. I am so proud to have them in the book.
Tiffany, thanks for talking with us.
TG - Thank you much. I really appreciate it. I am so glad you like the book.
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Photo credit: Tiffany Godoy.
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