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Jeff Staple On Starter Black Label

Starter Comes Back With The Black Label
By Nick Schonberger, posted on 15 June 2008
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What are your personal memories of starter and how do those play into your creative work?

JS: 3 Words: New-Jersey-Malls. Growing up in NJ and hanging around malls most of my early teenage years, it was all about Starter. There was really nothing more fly than rocking a Starter jacket. It kind of went along with Jordan's...showing your love of sport and then incorporating that into your fashion vision.

What's it like to have the opportunity to work with brands that sparked your interest during your "New Jersey Mall" days?

JS: It's a real honor and blessing that these world class companies call on Staple to work together. It's a dream come true. The challenge is not over-geeking out on it and trying to keep everything in perspective. It's not really just about what I want. I have to keep in mind what's good for the culture...What's good for the brand...and of course, what's good for Staple.

A few things I find interesting about the brand. At its heyday, from a cultural perspective, it was one of those labels that each individual made hot with how they rocked it. As logo apparel it had a general appeal, and then in the hip-hop community became something more. Also, it was at a moment in time where the niche brands were developing particularly in regards to hip-hop, but Starter really struck a cord because of the universal appeal. Is that a balance that still needs to be met? Something inherent to the brands history, that adaptability?

JS: Definitely. Starter Jackets were not made for "us". Just like Timberlands, North Face Jackets, Hockey Jerseys and even Air Force 1s to some extent. They were created for some other purpose and as you said, our culture adapted it for our own use. Starter Jackets could be worn by sideline coaches, middle America rednecks and hipsters in downtown Manhattan. But it was different on each and every person. It's a little known fact that Starter still exists to this day as a brand primarily sold in Wal-Mart. Think sweatpants, headbands and socks. (Great socks I might add). But it’s basic gym apparel wear. So I feel like as creative director of Starter Black Label, it's my job to re-interpret Starter for the modern day sports fan AND the modern day fashion icon. But all the while, not lose the DNA of the brand.

Since you mention Wal-Mart, you're kind of going against the tide. Meaning, while a lot of designers and "high end" brands are figuring ways to get in the big boxes, or working with them on more "design product," Starter is moving back out. Can you talk a little about your thoughts on the design trend in the big box stores, and also how Starter can so happily co-exist for a range of markets and price points?

JS: Well, the grass always looks greener on the other side. So while high end or premium brands enjoy life in the boutique world, they look at the big box retailers and see lots of eyes and hands (i.e., lots of dollars also). Meanwhile, brands that exist in the big box retailers see the boutiques and wish they had our customers. The trend with designers doing capsule collections with big box retailers is simple: Money. You can justify it anyway you want. More "exposure". More "accessibility". More "reach". "Spreading the message"...Anyway you want to slice it, it probably wouldn't have happened unless a fat check was involved. For Starter, as long the product is significantly different between Black Label and what's sold in Wal-Mart...it will be fine, and it will do its job. Let's face it. Every kid in America isn't going to be able to get Black Label. But when they see it on their favorite rapper, or see it on their favorite blog...they're gonna get the closest thing they can. Which in his or her case, might be the local Wal-Mart. It's the trickle down theory in its purest form.

And also socks, now they are coming into streetwear (part of lines), it was a long time coming! But really, can anybody beat the NBA sock? They are awesome.

JS: Starter makes a dope dri-fit type technical sock. After multiple washings, it’s still great.

Nostalgia, obviously, plays a large part in helping to reinvigorate interest in certain garments and labels. What are the challenges in creating something with contemporary appeal, something fresh, but still having that need to remind the consumer about the history?

JS: It’s really maintaining that balance of authenticity. Both being authentic to the brand heritage AND being authentic to the new customer. It's not an easy fence to straddle.
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