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HS: Coming to surf and street from a couture background, what are some of the lessons that are easily transferred? It seems that, to an extent, the endeavors are often viewed separately, and I wonder about how it plays out in true design form.
NB: Interestingly enough, initially the lessons learned in the world of couture were of no use to me, in fact I would go so far as to say they were a hindrance. I had to learn to undo the rigidity of those codes and start anew. I arrived here in California in 1985 and immediately started working for Gotcha sportswear. Surf culture was starting to break into full stride and Gotcha was one of the originators of that movement. They were in a sort of "Punk" phase and were finding their voice and appealing to kids by reinventing the beach lifestyle into a kind of alternative California statement.... so I could not have gotten further from couture if I had tried. Today however, that sounds strange because we have been living in a world dominated for the last 20 years by streetwear. Streetwear as we know has a healthy respect for next level and luxury brands, particularly in the last 10 years where Japanese streetwear brands have educated the consumer with incredible quality and design. This level of care and design is not that different from those brands I worked for in the early part of my career.
So, to answer your question, my formal European design background has never been as important as it is to my work right now. Kids have instant access to projects and products via the internet and nothing is secret. We created Stussy Deluxe from a point of view that represents these changes. I'm really glad of that formal training now that I'm working in streetwear.
HS: I'd like to know a little more about how you view the internet's role in changing consumer interests and needs. How do you think it has played out in establishing streetwear lines that are more closely connected to traditional fashion? And, in turn, has the internet provided the fertile soil for launching something like Stussy Deluxe?
NB: The internet has changed everything. The world through the internet is now as big as we have the time to make it and the influences on that world limited only by our own curiosity.
My full appreciation of the power of the internet on our customer came in 2005 when Stussy marked its 25th year of business and in celebration of that anniversary, generated a number collaborations and Special EDT Projects. At that time, the style information blog phenomenon seemed to be coming into full swing and everyone was hungry for any info they could get regarding product development and product drops. Everything Stussy launched was seen and talked about by kids around the world who were following those blogs and the effect on the brand awareness was phenomenal. I can't honestly say we saw that coming but as fate would have it, the timing was perfect and we definitely have not taken the power of the internet lightly ever since. It is the information that is available on the internet which has educated the consumer and broadened their influences. Stussy has the tag line "Knowledge is King" which we have used for many years and personally I think that has never been more timely. Our consumer is trading in knowledge and information and this has the effect of breaking down stereotypes. It is in this environment that we felt that the time was right to bring Stussy Deluxe to the market. Stussy Deluxe is a frame of mind. It does not have to represent a price point and doesn't represent an age group. The Deluxe customer was raised in streetwear but has a healthy interest in all forms of art and design. This consumer looks for and knows quality, is brand loyal but not brand stupid and now, due primarily to the existence of the web, can be found living pretty much anywhere in the world -- not just New York, London, Tokyo, or Los Angeles.
HS: What are some of the brands you might look to for inspiration? Or alternatively, view as competition for Stussy Deluxe?
NB: Brands that inspire Stussy Deluxe fall into three categories; first are the brands that I admire from a straight designer point of view. These include Comme Des Garcons ,Undercover and Visvim from Japan. I appreciate Lanvin men's (particularly the footwear), Martin Margiela and Margaret Howell from the UK. Second are the brands that are more in line with the Stussy aesthetic, and are really disciplined in how they present themselves. These are APC, Agnes B, Supreme and SOPH. Third are the brands that are more recognized names in the world of fashion and have over a period of time become definitive heritage brands. These are Polo Ralph Lauren, Patagonia, and Brooks Brothers. Obviously my inspiration can be very diverse but on the whole these are brands that have over the years always been consistent and solid.
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