After giving you a glimpse at the Umbro Archive Research Project Collection the other day, we can present today a great video, highlighting the collection and especially the thought of movement behind it, something designer Throup is best known for.
“Umbro dipped into their archives of English football tailoring heritage to build a seven piece lifestyle collection designed by Aitor Throup. Throup used the shape of a body in motion as his inspiration for the collection, creating each style on a bust form in a running position. All of the performance elements the brand is known for are kept firmly intact. There are seven pieces: the 1966 Jacket, Aztex Jersey, Diamond Tape Track Jacket, 1970 World Cup Jersey, Drill Top, Drill Pant and ‘Barcelona’ Short.”
The full collection is now also available from END. Check it out after the jump.
With the Umbro x Aitor Throup ‘Archive Research Project’ Collection coming to stores soon, we can finally give you a first look at some items from the collaboration.
“The A.R.P. sees Umbro team up once again with revered designer Aitor Throup, following on from their ground-breaking work on the 2009 England Home Kit and 2010 Away Kit. For the project Throup has reworked seven iconic archive pieces, including the legendary Ramsey Jacket and Aztec football shirt, focussing on ergonomics and anatomy to add new dimensions to these classic designs. Every piece has been thoroughly researched, starting with what made the original so popular, then designing each item around casts of footballers in a number of poses to look at the points at which articulation was most important.
The result is a collection that truly does justice to these iconic silhouettes, updated using the finest modern fabrics and forward-thinking design processes in true Aitor Throup Fashion.”
END will launch the collection on August 10th, 2011.
The much anticipated collaboration by Umbro and designer Aitor Throup on the A.R.P. (Archive Research Project) Collection will see its first release this coming summer. Today we can give you a little more background on the project and show a first preview image.
“Umbro, in collaboration with the critically acclaimed conceptual designer Aitor Throup, has delved into its extensive archive to launch the Archive Research Project (A.R.P.). Taking inspiration from iconic Umbro football garments, spanning the last 87 years, A.R.P. represents design innovation and style, whilst maintaining Umbroʼs English football tailoring heritage.
Since 2008 Umbro and Aitor Throup have collaborated together, specifically on the re- launch of the England Home kit in 2009 and more recently the England Away kit in 2010. It was during the 2009 kit project that Umbro and Aitor delved into the heritage of the brand and created an England football shirt that redefined replica by fusing football performance and tailoring.
The new Umbro A.R.P. collection is an innovative collection engineered for football performance and curated for lifestyle. Itʼs about the coming together of the past and the future; reinterpreting classic Umbro designs, such as the 1966 ʻRamseyʼ jacket and the brandʼs iconic ʻAztecʼ football shirt as worn by England in ʻ66, in a way that shatters the mould of previous construction methods of such garments.
The collection of seven unique garments really come into their own when examined from the inside out, mirroring the ʻinside-outʼ design and construction philosophy pioneered by Aitor Throup. This concept is the foundation of the way Throup approaches his work.”
With an official release of the collection set for August 2011, we can hopefully soon show you more!
After numerous interesting projects for the likes of Umbro, Stone Island and C.P. Company, designer Aitor Throup is about to make a return into the fashion world with a seasonal collection under his name. Today we take a look at his “Legs” pants, taking as usual a very functional appraoch on the matter. Image via honeyee.
To introduce the new pants, the designer also produced the below video.
“‘Legs’, the result of six years of ‘new object research’, aims to celebrate trousers and elevate them from their position as mere commodities to original objects d’art. Challenging the biannual dictates of the fashion industry, ‘Legs’ presents 24 archival trousers alongside three new reinterpretations of trousers found within previous collections.
Uniquely, the starting point of Aitor Throup’s creative process does not involve a specific vision as to what the final garment may be. Instead, free form, drawn illustrations of imaginary characters with distinct anatomies lead to overarching, narrative driven concepts that predetermine what the final creation shall be. In place of aesthetic frivolity is a responsibility to make nothing fall outside the register of an artistic statement or experience. It is an approach Throup describes as “Justified Design”, in which all design features are the results of — and justified by — the various processes pioneered by the designer.”
This weekend in Paris, one of our favorite designers, Aitor Throup, launched “Legs”, a retrospective of envelope-pushing trousers he designed over the past six years.
Throughout the Galerie Jean-Luc are Takako Richard stationary male forms moulded in thermoactive cotton mesh in rows from the ceiling, captured in vital movements of the human body. Throup has progressed chronologically through his archives, lifting a selection of designs from every six months and reinterpreting them with materials and design details appropriate to the season – and in doing so, has created an arena welcoming the expression of pure creativity and functionality. Capable of communicating a full-bodied narrative without proposing a complete look, Legs strives to elevate the status of trousers from over-saturated commodities to unique objet d’art.
Throup’s series of trousers entitled ‘The Funeral of New Orleans’ is in particular a testament to the creativity and logic of his vision. Informed by the traditional funeral processions of New Orleans’ marching bands, it deals with concepts of body armour – each piece is formed onto a mesh sculpture of the human body created in the pose required to play each instrument, and the trousers demonstrate five exaggerated stages of shrinkage from when wool is exposed to water. It is clear that Throup’s designs exist beyond the tired parameters of fashion– they are meticulously constructed garments existing both within their narrative and without, made with respect for the human body and an astounding understanding of its formation.
If you’re interested in this project, we suggest you visit Dazed Digital for an interview with Mr. Throup as well as AitorTroup.com for a video presentation of “Legs”. More images follow.
Last week we showed the 20th anniversary edition of the C.P. Company 1000m Goggle Jacket, which was designed this year by Aitor Throup. Today we can bring you a nice vide interview with the designer, as well as videos showcasing the 20th anniversary exhibition that recently took placein Milan. Via Beinghunted.
C.P. Company celebrates the 20th anniversary of their famous 1000m Goggle Jacket. For the special occasion they invited Aitor Throup to design this years jacket and once again the designer proofed that functionality and design can go hand in hand.
“Aitor Throup has designed the 20th Anniversary Edition of C.P. Company’s most iconic piece – the Goggle or Mille Miglia Jacket. To celebrate both the past and future of this jacket the company is hosting a special exhibition at their showroom in Milan during the 2009 International Furniture Fair. The exhibition, which has been curated by Aitor Throup, features the new design as well as 20 Mille Miglia jackets selected from the C.P. Company archive.”
Beinghunted has uploaded a feature, showcasing the exhibition, the past models of the jacket and of course gives a detailed look at the new Aitor Throup jacket.
Check out the C.P. Company 1000m Goggle Jacket by Aitor Throup after the jump.
After first collaborating last season, Stone Island worked once again this season with Aitor Throup to bring you the Articulated Anatomy project. This time the idea was for the garments to directly mirror the range of movement of the body itself. The pieces morph and move, extend and contract, just like the body does. With the industrialization of the garment industry and ever-growing standardization one has excepted that clothes are produced in a certain manner, usually all pretty much the same. In reality though, the body is hardly ever in such a strict pose, as proposed by most garments out there.
It is once again great to see how Aitor Throup has challenged standardized garment construction in the new Articulated Anatomy Project with Stone Island.
Take a detailed look at the resulting pieces after the jump.
The Reed Space in New York will be hosting the launch of the new England Kit by Umbro and Aitor Throup. Reed Space Annex has been completely transformed into a new space to present the kit. Also Umbro has customized 50 pieces for The Reed Space, all featuring the “Tailored for Reed Space” embroidery on the chest. The special space will be opening on 29th of March, one day after the official revealing of the new team kit. Via Jeff Staple.
More images and a short video on this project follow after the jump.
