If you shop the Downtown New York boutiques, it’s a pretty sure bet that your eye has been caught by some 80%20 shoes. Both clever and sweet, the brand has been a favorite of sneakeristas since it officially launched just two years ago. Over the past year, designer Ce Ce Chin has expanded her reach via a line of boots, including the hidden wedge Tammy, aka, the padded bra of the footwear world. CWK recently interviewed her to see how she was able to launch a shoe line (which is only 18 billion times more complicated than starting a tee-shirt line), what’s up-and-coming, and of course, what would a CWK interview be if we didn’t pry into her shoe closet??
^^Here's Ce Ce in her home away from home. If you'd like to see her shoes in action, check out this 80%20 video, which features the Tammy.
CWK: Where does the name 80%20 come from?
Ce Ce: The ideology behind 80%20 comes from the observation that we tend to wear our favorite 20% of our wardrobe 80% of the time and that these shoes are definitely part of the 20% you can't live without.
CWK: How did you get your start in fashion?
Ce Ce: I was a handbag designer in the industry. I wanted to do my own line. I was playing around with the shoes and when I wore my custom designs people really responded. And I decided, I’m gonna just go with this. It was more of a hobby test.
CWK: Did you study design in college?
Ce Ce: I was a political science major, but I got into fashion when I moved to New York and realized that was the way I wanted to go. I worked for two really big companies—Calvin Klein and Michael Kors. Before that I had worked with a smaller company that did work for those bigger companies and that’s where I got the foundation on how to build a collection and get distributed.
CWK: When did you launch 80%20?
Ce Ce: My first year was July of 2003. And then I was doing more customizing, air brushing patterns on to shoe. I wasn’t producing my own lasts. My first official collection launched in spring 2005. I spent a lot of time the year before that visiting with the factories.
CWK: Where are the shoes manufactured?
Ce Ce: The same factory that in China that does La Coq Sportif also manufactures 80%20.
CWK: Was it more difficult dealing with manufacturers as a woman?
Ce Ce: The fact that was I was a woman didn’t get in the way. I was just so determined. I flew over there and visited the factory. I had a determined spirit and I wasn’t going to take no for an answer. The tenacity is what helped.
CWK: Did you have to put together a business plan to get people to work with you?
Ce Ce: Not really, I knew which stores I wanted to sell to, but I didn’t have a formal business plan. It’s a work in progress. I had a lot of luck and tenacity in the beginning.
CWK: Who were the first retailers to carry your line?
Ce Ce: My first store ever was Shop on the Lower East Side. Her customer was the Downtown girl. She has a lot of great denim and I fit into her mix well. That was in 2003 and we still sell to her. My first sneaker store was Conveyor, which is part of Fred Segal. And both of those stores are ones that other retailers follow and help get the word out.
CWK: How is it finding new retailers?
Ce Ce: That’s challenging. A lot is forming relationships between buyers at trade shows and keeping buyers aware of press, which can take time, but if you’re true to yourself and doing what you believe in, people are more likely to give you a chance.
CWK: How many stores is 80%20 in now?
Ce Ce: Over 100 for spring. I have one store in Japan and one in Greece. I have a Canadian distributor that has done well with the brand, too.
^^In stores now!
^^Also in stores now!
CWK: How do you get exposure for the brand?
Ce Ce:We do the trade shows and there’s a lot of press people at the trade shows and that gives us exposure, but to a certain degree it’s about being present in the culture of New York City, meeting people through what you do ordinarily and just enjoying your life.”
CWK: Have your shoes had any brushes with famous people?
Ce Ce: At one of the first trade shows I did, Shalom Harlow came up and really liked them, and getting that reaction was a good thing. One funny thing, this friend of mind found a picture of DJ AM kissing my shoes, but that was more of a random type of thing.
CWK: Your designs get copied a lot by competitors. How do you deal with that?
Ce Ce: It’s really rough. You just have to move on. The industry has a lot of that going on and it’s not just shoes, it’s fashion in general. Even the hidden wedge we just did, I know a lot of people will copy it, but still, there’s a personal satisfaction that I did it first. I guess if I were bigger, I could do something about it, but it’s not worth the time and energy.
CWK: So what can we expect for fall?
Ce Ce: For fall we’re doing our hidden wedge, the Tammy, in leather. It’s really been opening up new doors for us. It takes us beyond a company that just does sneakers. In Japan, there’s a department stored called Isetan, which picked it up, and I don’t know if we would have gotten in there without the boot.
^^This is the hidden wedge Tammy in canvas
^^And here's a CWK exclusive peak at Ce Ce's take on high tops. Cute, right? This one's called the Lexi and you won't be able to get your mitts on it until fall.
CWK: What trends are hot right now in footwear?
Ce Ce: Anything with an almond toe rather than a pointed or round toe. Color is important and comfort is important. You have to be on your feet so a shoe that’s comfortable will never fail.
CWK: How much longer is canvas going to be hot?
Ce Ce: There’s a lot of social consciousness these days and canvas for some reason fits in with that mindset. Going forward, I think it depends on what you do with canvas. I see a mixture of textiles as opposed to just canvas. When qw got into the vulcanized canvas trend when it was just starting and now so many people are doing it and doing it cheaper so it makes it tough for a small brand like ours to compete.
CWK: We at ChicksWithKicks always have to ask, how’s your kicks collection?
Ce Ce: I have the Nike salmon skin Blazers [Note: the official sneaker of CWK!], I love those. I would love to get some VisVim, but I don’t think they make those for women. I also have the original Nike split toe from 1996.
CWK: Do you collect?
Ce Ce: I’m not a collector with a whole closet full of shoes. I wouldn’t consider myself a sneaker head.
CWK: What labels do you like?
Ce Ce: I love [update:]Tsumori Chisato, who’s from Japan. She’s done some great shoes and VisVim is great. They are both designers who can inject some fashion into a sneaker. F-Troop and P.F. Fliers look really good now, too. For fashion, I think Marc Jacobs is fantastic. He’s proven himself season after season. And Trovata is really great.
CWK: What do you wear day-to-day?
Ce Ce: Pretty much skinny jeans and maybe my Tammy boots and a narrow silhouette top with a hoody or little jacket.
CWK: What trends do you see as dead?
Ce Ce: The low waist denim thing—it’s not very flattering on a lot of people and I’m definitely over that. But if the waist is going to come up, it’ll have to go gradually. A high waist can make your legs look long, which is great. All-over prints are a bit much, especially the real graphic ones. I just think graphics in general are old. I’d like to see things get a little more tailored, with people wearing things more fitted and structured and not so casual. The whole sweatsuit thing is horrifying.
CWK: Any advice to the young designers out there thinking of starting a line?
Ce Ce: Young designers tend to be focused on the product and how cool it will be, but there’s so much more to it. My advice is to embrace the fact that there will be obstacles. It’s just hard. No one said it would be easy though.
Thanks very much, Ce Ce!
Enjoy your weekend, everyone!
Lois: LSakany at Gmail.com