As one of only two U.S. sneaker boutiques that sells strictly to the ladies, Laces, a Manhattan-based shop gets plenty of mentions around this joint, and rightly so. I profiled Laces and its owner, Louis Colon III, for Footwear News magazine not long after it opened in 2005 and I figured it would be fun to catch up with him and see what’s changed in that time. In addition to Laces, Louis also heads up Kicksclusive magazine, and was recently featured in Nike’s Air Force One book, in which he is dubbed “The Ladies Man,” an ode to Laces. And oh yes people, like I promised when I wrote last week that I was planning on interviewing Louis, I tried--REPEATEDLY!--to dig for some gossip on the latest streetwear feuds, but every time I tried, he either acted the fool or got all United Nations on me--Bed-stuy raised him right, dammit!
^^Louis at the store, not too long after it opened.
CWK: You opened in December 2005, correct? When did you first think about opening a boutique?
Louis: A good year before I opened it. At the time I was already doing Kicksclusive, which I started about four-and-a-half years ago.
CWK: On the road to opening, what was your biggest roadblock? How did you overcome it?
Louis: I had never worked in retail so I had to figure out what it is that makes the business move. I had to learn about project planning and how to put together a budget and all the other nuts and bolts that go into opening a business.
CWK: Opening a store in Manhattan is a pretty big move. I know a lot of times when you want to step out like that, you’ll get mixed feedback and some of it will be negative. Was that an issue at all?
Louis: I was careful to talk to people who were trustworthy. They were the people I knew would give me a good gage on how realistic the idea was. My parents had my back, but they were leery. One turning point was when I met Priscilla Shumate from Nike. I met her sort of randomly while I was at Project pushing the magazine. By then, I already knew I wanted to call the store Laces, and I figured, eff it, I might as well ask her. We were talking and I told her I wanted to open a ladies sneaker boutique. Her vibe on the idea was positive and she told me, “We need to talk.” That feedback definitely got the ball rolling. Because even with me doing the magazine, until Priscilla, I never had a big player at Nike give me any feedback.
CWK: How many hours a week are you actually in the store?
Louis: Until recently, Laces and Kickscluvive were in separate offices and then it was 30 hours at the store and 30 hours at the office. Kicksclusive, which has been my bread and butter, was in a Midtown office. I consolidated and moved the magazine office into the store because I was losing my mind going back and forth between the two places. Now I’m here at least 60 hours a week. Three other people work here part time.
CWK: What’s the best part and what’s the worst part of owning Laces?
Louis: The possibility of this being really big is what I really enjoy more than anything else. A lot of things could go wrong, but right now it gives me a lot of hope. The hard part is definitely the managerial part. I expect people to work as hard as I do so having to deal with an employee that doesn’t see what I see can be frustrating—just simple things, like arranging the pillows says a lot. With a store like this, I’m selling experience as much as product.
CWK: Speaking of employees, I haven’t heard it about Laces, but I definitely hear people complain about the attitudes of the people who work in certain New York sneaker boutiques. Do you think the owners intentionally cultivate that attitude?
Louis: Now I see what [the owners] have to deal with. Some people just want to come and just hang out. They don’t realize you’re working. Plus, I think the other stores get jaded. With guys, they don’t need to pay attention to the customer since a lot of times he’s just going to buy what he wants and leave.
CWK: We’ve talked in the past about the frustrations of convincing sneaker companies that investing in product development for a female customer is worth their while. Has that mindset changed much over the past six months?
Louis: I think they have begun to pay attention to more than just the woman runner and gym person, but they still don’t use my store enough to push to a certain customer who’s looking for something different.
^^A more recent image of Louis with the kicks as always having his back.
CWK: As much as the sneaker companies need to be educated, do you think the female customer lags behind the male sneaker enthusiast in knowledge or does she just have a different mindset and always will?
Louis: I think she’ll always have a different mindset. Her buying habits are just different, plus, there are a lot more places for women to shop. I’ve seen all-over-print hoodies coming out of Strawberry’s. Special events don’t work either because there’s really no limited edition product for women. [Sneaker companies] are making exclusive product, but not collaborations like they do for the men. I think for me, I have to learn what girls are going to wear and what lifestyle we want to sell to them. You don’t want to pigeon hole. That’s why I can’t label the store a streetwear store. I want it to be a funky trendsetter store, a place that if you’re on top of your shoe game, you’ll know about Laces.
CWK: How do you create cache in the minds of a female customer and how does that contrast with a male customer?
Louis: The whole experience of the store and the product you select has to tell stories. I have a friend from high school who never wore sneakers at all. I put her in a pair of [Nike] Zoom Blazers, she put them on and everywhere she went, people were asking her, “Where did you get those shoes??” Now she’s asking me, “What is the next shoe I need to buy?” I really believe the way we saw men’s sneakers explode, we’ll see women’s explode. Of course when it gets there, the top-notch girls will go away from sneakers.
CWK: What right now is the hottest style in the store?
Louis: It’s always the [Nike] Metro product—the Zoom Blazers and the Sprint Sister. I just got in the new Cr8tive Recreations. People like them. The more simple ones are not moving as quickly as the other ones.
^^This shot of the store is from when I first interviewed Louis. I did a close-up shot of the Blazer on the far left on the middle shelf, which is now used as the Chicks With Kicks logo.
CWK: What about the growth in popularity of mids and highs for women?
Louis: It’s still in the baby step phase because the selection is so limited.
CWK: What brand do you see that’s an up-and-comer for women?
Louis: We saw the Etnies Plus stuff and liked it. I placed a big order with them because once it’s gone, it’s gone. And we’ve always felt Puma does a good job with women, but its sales staff doesn’t get it as far as positioning. It seems like Puma’s marketing people aren’t in touch with its product people. That’s what Nike does the best. I think [Nike] understands that the buzz of the underground scene gives more than any print ad could. And that’s not to say [Nike’s] campaigns aren’t good. The product positioning just does so much more for branding.
CWK: Since this is for ChicksWithKicks, but you’re not a chick, in your estimation, who are the top three female collectors out there?
Louis: There are girl influencers that I feel are really relevant like Nina Sky. They have a down-to-earth celebrity status and they wear their kicks well. Amanda Diva is good. She’s an artist and she works on radio and MTV, plus Laura Stylez, a radio personality. There’s MissInfo and there’s my friend Mary Papers. She’s not a celebrity, but she’s a celebrity in her own right.
CWK: You’ve added art and Mama’s nailpolish line to your store. How far do you want to go with additional categories and lines?
Louis: Gabriella from Mama was just here. I want to capture the whole lifestyle. My next future move by summer time is to add in some kids sneakers for the moms and aunts who are always in here. By May, we’re going to add the Laces women’s clothing line, which is going to start with tee-shirts. It’s going to be an ode to female icons.
^^Close-up on some Nikes and a Laces-branded accessory tin that holds--natch!--laces.
CWK: There are a lot of rivalries between streetwear companies. Do you see the same bad blood coming up between New York boutiques?
Louis: Of course there is competition. Every business man is going to be competitive. But I stay in my lane so no one is threatened by me. Flight Club does consignment, and even though they do sell to women, it’s a sneaker head girl who is looking for a Jordan. Girls who shop on Mott Street don’t really wear Jordans. I refer people to other stores all the time and they do the same. It doesn’t hurt me to send a guy to a guy’s store or send a girl to a store for her boyfriend. Plus, if I’m scared, then it means that my game is not up to par. I have to ask myself, who is this customer and why am I not selling to her?
CWK: I’ve been in your store Louis, and it’s like a non-stop runway for pretty girls. Have you found since you’ve opened that you’ve become a lot more popular with your male friends?
Louis: (Laughs) I do get a lot of guys coming in wanting to talk and hangout. Sometimes I have to tell them to lower their voice, but yeah, I do get a lot of good-looking women. New York is filled with good-looking women. Spring, summer and fall is great over here.
CWK: Do you have any upcoming events you like to mention?
Louis: We’re having a magazine event on the March 29th. It’s a party for the next issue of Kicksclusive with Bobbito on the cover.
[At this point in the interview, Louis brought up his most recent event, which took place at a Downtown club and was highlighted by a sneaker fashion show and Nina Sky performance, and I remembered that we here at CWK, while overall giving the concept high marks, gave Louis a couple of knocks upside the head because of the long lines to get into the event and the late start for the fashion show. At first I tried to squirm out of it by putting all the blame for the critique on my partner, Samia (it’s one thing to write the shit, but quite another when you have to actually SPEAK to the person you bitched about, especially someone as nice as Louis), but then I quickly remembered that I had not only co-signed on her take in the comments, but days before her review, I had even taken the time to put up my very own post, in which I wrote about stomping off in a huff because of the long wait to get into the club—as if! So here’s where Louis finally gets a chance to respond.]
Louis: We’ve had really successful events—the launch party, the event with Lupe Fiasco and the Etnies party. I can’t control security and places. I understood the frustration over waiting to get in, but I couldn’t control the club’s security. There were over 1,200 people that rsvp-ed and I tried to pull in people, but the club wanted the line to be slow and the bouncers kept sending me away. I know there were at least 100 people who left because they said they didn’t want to wait. And yeah, the hair and makeup for nine girls took much longer than we expected. After there was some writer from the Village Voice complaining that there were too many guys and that the women there were wearing pumps.
CWK: Wearing pumps? Like they were only supposed to wear sneakers? That’s what women wear out to clubs in New York.
Louis: And sneaker events are almost always dominated by guys. That’s just how it is.
CWK: So she just doesn't get it. Are you planning another show?
Louis: I would do another fashion show, but just twice a year. Also I want to do tastemaker events in the store, ladies only events. We’ll Get a liquor sponsor, and host a sneaker pampering night once every couple of weeks. I want to do more female art installation events.
^^The one and only!
Keep doing your thing, Louis!
Lois/LSakany at Gmail.com