With the end of men’s Fashion Weeks in Europe, we bring you our picks of the best collections from Milan. See our rankings of brands from Calvin Klein to Prada and Jil Sander as well as the other Fall/Winter 2015 collections that made the cut. If you missed it, also check out our coverage of London Collections: Men, and do look forward to a round-up of Paris, coming soon.
Silvia Venturini Fendi was inspired by the faculty at her daughter’s university in London for Fall/Winter 2015. That gave way to corduroy and Harris Tweed being the main materials of the collection, used as academic suiting and reversible outerwear. A sprinkling of the student’s apple motif as keychains on the bags — reminiscent of the brand’s playful fur monsters — and oversized fleece pockets on otherwise ordinary sweaters give the extremely wearable collection a hint of Fendi’s own experimental flare.
9. Ermenegildo Zegna
Like Fendi, Stefano Pilati used Harris Tweed extensively throughout his latest collection. The decision came out of the desire to promote sustainability in luxury fashion, for which he felt the Scottish hand-woven material was perfect. But instead of presenting the timeless fabric in classic ways, Pilati played with it, glazing it in recycled plastic coating. Earthy tones and gentlemanly silhouettes are given a futuristic twist, overall heightening Zegna’s fashion-forwardness to another level.
8. Calvin Klein
Nothing less is ever expected from Calvin Klein than perfection. For Fall/Winter 2015, designer Italo Zucchelli took to glamorous film noirs, offering his ’40s-inspired styles in a palette that only consists of black, white and all the shades of grey in between. While Zucchelli used a micro cheetah print for half the collection, what have us all gawking is his dramatically cropped flight jackets (some in black vinyl) paired with loosely tailored trousers. We are absolutely enamored by this new proportion play for men.
Prada Fall/Winter 2015 wasn’t as stylized as Miuccia Prada’s past collections, opting for more subdued and everyday-wearable looks. But the new line was still retro-inspired, taking ’50s bowling shirt silhouettes with wide collars that translate seamlessly onto button-down shirts, updated with thin drawstring waists. The most Prada did with styling was rolling up the sleeve cuffs to expose the linings of their jackets and blazers — speaking of which, outerwear and tops were the most beautiful in incredible combinations of camel and grey.
More tweed, wool, corduroy and knits, but in Boglioli’s own take. This range from the Italian suit makers makes use of rich and autumnal primary colors, inspired by the ’60s dapper gentleman who could fearlessly wear cobalt blue and carrot orange together. We’re also fans of the pinstripe jumpsuit; there needs to be more of that in this world. You can see Boglioli’s full Fall/Winter 2015 collection here.
5. Jil Sander
Rodolfo Paglialunga’s newest lineup for Jil Sander rides on the same loose trouser wavelength as Zegna and Calvin Klein, but with an almost alarming twist: pleats are inverted to create a round front, making the styles seemingly awkward and unwearable — but that’s precisely what we like about this collection. Surely not for the faint of heart, this silhouette would have to be started off by early adopters, which we hope you all are.
This season’s MSGM was more clean and sober compared to the label’s loudly colorful collections in the past. With baggy cut-up denim and slouchy, oversized outerwear, it is as if we’re thrown back to the ’90s to hang out with that one earring-wearing pretty boy we used to fantasize about. And that’s a great thing.
Iceberg’s usual hard-hitting, distinctively urban aesthetic is forgone for Fall/Winter 2015 in favor of a more cozy and organic feel. The starting point of this collection was “a Japanese person in Williamsburg, Brooklyn”; for Iceberg’s Federico Curradi, that means knits in Edo-period and Pop Art patterns and workwear silhouettes in courageously bright colors. We’ll take it.
2. Vivienne Westwood
Vivienne Westwood’s Prince of Wales-inspired collection appropriately channels classic Savile Row windowpane-check in a variety of suiting for men and women. The always-gender bending Dame’s styling stayed on the wackier side with loud accessories and costumey make-up, but her mastery of color shines through in beautiful mint-grey sweaters and airy shades of blues. Footwear is also not to be missed from this collection, as luxe and fully designed as ever.
1. Bottega Veneta
Fendi and Zegna successfully mixed texture; Calvin Klein and Jil Sander upped the proportion game; and Boglioli and Westwood combined colors with skill. Bottega Veneta did it all. Not only are Tomas Maier’s trousers (which have elasticized waists, by the way) the epitome and effortless cool, velvet shirts layered under tonal tweed jackets and luxe leather accessories stole the show — the entire Milan Fashion Week for us, in fact.
- Source: Style.com