With London Collections: Men just around the corner and another packed four day schedule ahead, we restart our series of collection previews. Beginning with Matthew Miller, we get a peek at what’s to come for Spring/Summer 2016.
Another new season upon us, while we’re all enjoying the current warm weather those crazy fashion cats are already thinking about Spring/Summer 2016. Time to say hello, once again, to London Collections: Men as the extended four day schedule returns with plenty to look forward to. As usual, in the days running up we introduce a series of bite-sized previews, encouraging those tight-lipped designers to offer a peek of what’s to come.
Up first, Matthew Miller. Debuting in 2011, Miller’s work cleverly balances art, politics and truly wearable menswear; a feat few designers have convincingly achieved. Thought-provoking but never pretentious, Miller’s Fall 2015 collection, “Resitant,” explored “romance, decay…and the paraphernalia of success.” This time around we’re offered “Uni-formal” chaos and some promising collaborations with the likes of Marwood and Robert Clergerie. Read on for a taste of what’s to come.
Tell us a little about your preparation for Spring/Summer 2016, when did it all begin and what was the starting point?
The starting point is research. I usually spend around two weeks or more in libraries and galleries wherever I am in the world, then I like to spend around two weeks doing fabric research. I can’t stress how important materials are in the whole process. They’re central to the collection’s look, feel and texture.
How would you summarise your Spring/Summer 2016 collection?
Can you give us an insight into some of the details?
The fabrics have all been made in Italy and they’re classically progressive. I’ve also been working with French footwear brand Robert Clergerie – I went to meet their creative director Roland Mouret in Paris and after a discussion about design we decided to work on the footwear for the show. I designed them and they made them in their workshops in the South of France.
Who did you have in mind when designing the collection? Would you say you design for yourself or others?
I generally have a concept for the season and there is always an archetypal image in my head of who this is, what they do, where they socialise and what their temperament is. It’s almost like psychological profiling.
Is there one piece you’re really excited to unveil?
I’ve been working with Marwood, the British accessories brand, to make accessories for Spring/Summer 2016 so it’s going to really exciting to see them.
Is there anyone else on the schedule you’re looking forward to checking out?
Casely-Hayford is always exciting, as are the MAN exhibitions. The whole of LC:M is on point at the moment.