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Christopher Raeburn went on a voyage to Mongolia with his latest men’s collection, which was unveiled at the Fall/Winter 2016 installment of London Collections Men. Following on from his “REMADE” drop – which crafted garments from repurposed life rafts – Raeburn’s designs leaned on adventurous tropes, with rain camo and quilted anoraks keeping things outdoorsy, in a muted, militaristic palette dominated by khaki and olive drab.

Footwear-wise, the designer’s suede boots looked rugged and ready for anything, despite their intricately constructed uppers. We’ve seen a lot of designers returning to boots this season – CMMN SWDN’s hairy Chelseas were a fine example – and I imagine we’ll be seeing a lot more sturdy footwear in seasons to come.

In terms of apparel, Raburn played with jagged shapes and geometric patterns, with that aforementioned raindrop motif was repeated over crewnecks and sweatshirts. There were some great fabrics used across the jackets – they looked battered and worn-in, but with plenty of life in them yet – ready for the excursion to Mongolia, presumably. The less said about this chunky cardigan-scarf hybrid, though, the better.

Adventurous spirit aside, it’s pretty hard to categorize Raeburn’s latest offering. By avoiding the chic classicism of menswear, the drama of high fashion, and the subcultural codes of streetwear, Raeburn risks appealing to few and exciting none – in this editor’s humble opinion. These clothes are interesting to look at, sure, but don’t offer much to savvy 21st century dressers – ones who, at the touch of a button, can feast their eyes on everything and anything the world has to offer.

For more London Collections Men coverage, check out the latest collections from Craig Green, CMMN SWDN, Nasir Mazhar and Cottweiler.

 

Words by Alec Leach
Freelance Writer/Editor/Consultant

Alec Leach grew up in Brighton, England, but now lives in Berlin

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