Highsnobiety is on the ground at the world’s fashion capitals, bringing you up-to-date reporting on the latest shows, presentations and events from the SS17 fashion weeks.
To save you the hassle of checking countless different collection reports, we’re bringing you all the most important happenings in one easy-to-digest daily roundup.
Here’s everything you need to know from Day 2 of London Collections: Men SS17. See all of yesterday’s goings-on here.
Nasir Mazhar Was as Loud as Ever
If LCM’s inaugural day got off to a somewhat shaky start, Day 2 started with a giddy adrenaline rush, courtesy of local boy Nasir Mazhar.
What sets Mazhar apart from the rest of his London contemporaries is the subcultural energy coursing through his veins — his shows are a deafening celebration of London in all its vibrant, multicultural glory.
For SS17, Nasir’s sexed-up rave and road-wear was as loud as its ever been (as was the soundtrack). His women looked hard as nails, with fur coats worn over exposed track gear, topped off by combat boots that looked like Robocop’s leg had been severed at the ankle.
Hunter-style vests, boonie hats and leopard-print detailing made his roadman and warrior-woman army look like it was going on some sort of rave-safari extravaganza. Much like Astrid Andersen’s show yesterday, Mazhar made very few changes to his established formula, and like so many names on the LCM schedule, there was almost no compromise commercially — there were very few easy pieces here.
It seems crazy to say this in a city like London, one of the most multicultural places on the planet, but Nasir needs to be commended for the unapologetically diverse street castings. His shows tend to feature very few white faces, and, along with his outrageously good soundtracks, are a genuine reflection of the British capital’s unique spirit.
Speaking of soundtracks, L-Vis 1990’s bass heavy garage felt like an audio punch to the face. Previous Nasir shows have been scored by grime and garage heavyweights Skepta and Preditah, and are the perfect accompaniment to his full-throttle clothing.
Daniel W Fletcher Staged a Protest
Former Central Saint Martins student Daniel W Fletcher, who commented on London’s rampaging gentrification in his “Peckham Pony Club” graduate collection, staged an impromptu presentation outside the LCM show space.
Titled “Stay”, the collection tackled Britain’s potential exit from the EU. The clothing itself was a homage to the uniform of the British holiday-maker – raincoats, shorts and souvenir tees were all reinterpreted by the talented young designer. “I am surrounded by people from Europe in what i do” Fletcher commented. “I cannot imagine the creative industries without this pool of talent”.
Cottweiler’s Tracksuit Game is Unbeatable
Last season Cottweiler envisioned the start of a new society, colliding agricultural and industrial motifs with their futurist athleticwear. This time around, they imagined a ruined mediterranean dystopia — “we just moved to a sunnier climate” Ben Cottrell quipped backstage.
Concepts aside, this is the same Cottweiler that we know and love — it’s a conceptual, minimalist vision of sportswear, executed in a bevy of next level fabrics — which, for SS17, included transparent linen, waterproof, high-stretch oxford, lightweight synthetic suede bonded to a silk jersey.
That last material appeared on outrageously lush tracksuit above. Elsewhere, there were rave-friendly arm pouches accompanying Cottweiler’s trademark nouveau tracksuits, while a palette of dusty pink, baby blue and virginal white kept the label’s clothing seasonally-appropriate.
Matthew Miller Is Razor Sharp
Matthew Miller looked back in time with his contemporary British tailoring, clashing 21st-century sensibilities with the UK’s skinhead movement and romanticism art movement. There’s always witty undertones to Miller’s work, but at the end of the day he just makes great clothes that pretty much anyone could pull off.
Miller’s lightweight bombers, loose trousers and off-white topcoats all looked like they’d fly off the shelves when they hit retailers next year. His viscose checkerboard pattern was inspired by skinhead’s favorite Trojan Records, while the subculture’s bleached denim was juxtaposed with A Study Of Clouds 1871, the work of 19th century romantic painter John Constable.
He also dragged the gentleman’s staple double-breasted blazer into this day and age, by pairing it with slouchy trousers and Converse sneakers.
Matthew Miller’s product-driven approach to clothing is razor sharp, and almost Scandinavian in its efficiency. Much like yesterday’s CMMN SWDN presentation, Miller’s concepts are just a way of tying his clever, modern clothes together — a way of giving editors like myself something to write about.
Alex Mullins Unleashes an Army of Experiments
The LCM schedule is filled with young, bright-eyed designers, but there’s two sides to every coin. Case in point was Alex Mullins, who unleashed an army of awkward experiments that included tunics made from cut-out goldfish. There were flashes of real-life clothing in among all the oddities, but the collection looked largely out of place among to the many London names that are becoming slick, polished brands in their own right.
- Backstage Photographer: Eva Al Desnudo / Highsnobiety.com