Highsnobiety is on the ground at the world’s fashion capitals, bringing you up-to-date reporting on the latest shows, presentations and events from the SS17 fashion weeks.
To save you the hassle of checking countless different collection reports, we’re bringing you all the most important happenings in one easy-to-digest daily roundup.
Here’s everything you need to know from Day 4 of London Collections: Men SS17. Check out yesterday’s action here.
LC:M SS17 really started to wind down on the final day — all the attendees were either too hungover from a week of free booze, or bracing themselves for the next step of the fashion month schedule: Pitti Uomo. This season in general has been pretty lackluster, as London’s designers either stuck to their guns (nothing wrong with that, they’re fledgling designers and need to develop their businesses) or indulged their egos with awkward, far-out experiments.
Kiko Kostadinov Takes Workwear Into the Future
Kiko Kostadinov wowed the fashion press with his “Displacement” collection, which saw the Central Saint Martins student gleefully rip some Stussy garments to shreds, before piecing them back together, creating a dope series of one-of-a-kind streetwear pieces.
Kiko’s own label, which debuted today at LCM, is totally different to his Stussy project. With an overarching futurist workwear vibe, his clothing consisted of modernized chore coats, jumpsuits and lab coats, accessorized by hip-slung tool bags and protective headwear. Tyvek, a technical fabric engineered from recycled paper, was used on many pieces, sometimes with glossy paint splashed all over them.
Given Kostadinov’s ties with Errolson Hugh and ACRONYM, there’s probably some next-level pattern-cutting acrobatics going on, but things looked pretty nondescript from where I was standing — Kiko’s show notes spoke of an “anti decorative” approach to design, so that’s hardly surprising, really.
Katie Eary Used a Lot of Silk
Next up was Katie Eary, who indulged in a big, loud and flamboyant display of peacocking for SS17. Both genders strutted down the runway in striking silk two-pieces that clashed images of fish with flashes of bright coral. Yet more pieces were decorated with jagged geometric patterns.
Eary’s many, many silk pieces looked perfect for lounging around on some sort of Caribbean veranda sipping on piña coladas. It’s probably worth mentioning that it was pouring rain outside the London show space, though. Her collection’s punchy graphics made for great eye candy, but there didn’t appear to be much depth or subcultural nous going on — it’s the sort of thing that could easily be ripped off by any of the design-hungry high-fashion retailers out there.
Liam Hodges is OK
In the three years since Liam Hodges graduated from the Royal College of Art, he’s used his label to pay tribute to Britain’s blue-collar culture, theming his collections around market traders, pirate radio stations and boy racers. For SS17, Hodges went down a less conceptual route, although his man is still a rugged, salt-of-the-earth type.
Oversized bombers sported patches bearing the slogan “I’m OK,” while workers’ jackets had been constructed from repurposed Dickies pants. Like Xander Zhou’s opening show, the Vetements effect made its way onto Hodges’ runway via some XXXXXL-length sleeves and deconstructed, half-on, half-off garments. Nothing wrong with that per se, but it’s pretty interesting to see how the Vetements hype has leapt from street style into designers’ imaginations.
Overall, strong stuff from the upcoming designer. One of the best things about London’s designers is how staunchly London they all are, and Hodges’ proud homages to British culture is no exception.
That wraps up the SS17 installment of LCM — next up is Pitti Uomo, where Gosha Rubchinskiy, Raf Simons and visvim have all been recruited to stage special shows for the trade fair.
The views and opinions expressed in this piece are those of the author, and do not necessarily reflect the position of Highsnobiety as a whole.
- Backstage Photographer: Eva Al Desnudo / Highsnobiety.com