Highsnobiety is on the ground at the world’s fashion capitals, bringing you up-to-date reporting on the latest shows and events from the SS17 fashion weeks.
To save you the hassle of checking countless different collection reports, we’re bringing you all the most important happenings in one easy-to-digest daily roundup.
Here’s everything you need to know from Day 1 of Paris Fashion Week SS17. Check out the last of Milan’s action here.
Demna Gvasalia Made His Balenciaga Debut
Demna Gvasalia’s Balenciaga debut was all about volumes. Just like his debut women’s show for the house, the designer played with garments’ architecture, and gave his men’s pieces the same broad, hulking shoulders used in Vetements’ FW16 show. Other looks flipped that move on its head, and were tailored skin-tight.
The extra-wide bombers, harringtons, leather pieces and trucker jackets looked a lot easier than the suiting and tailored coats, which were niche pieces to say the least. XXL-sized trousers, wallet chains and tote bags looked slightly more commercially-minded — you could actually imagine regular people wearing those.
Demna’s men’s debut was a whole lot more out-there than Alexander Wang’s Balenciaga ever was. I’m sure there’s some next-level tailoring going on here, and Cristóbal was a master couturier himself, but who wants their clothing to either make them look like an American footballer or someone in a straightjacket?
Y/Project Celebrated the Glam and the Kitsch
Y/Project isn’t a label for the faint-hearted. It’s pretty much what Prince (RIP, pour one out) would wear if he read Highsnobiety. Take the brand’s opening three looks: silk suits in rosé and lavender, and an extra fabulous, extra-extra oversized salmon knit.
Y/Project’s sliced-up leather truckers and bomber with exposed hi-vis liner were strong. The braided belt-knit-sweater-thing, less so.
A hairy cow-hair biker jacket looked like it was designed especially for NBA super-fan James Goldstein. The V-fronted jeans, which dipped down to expose the wearer’s crotch, were hilarious and would go down a storm at your local fetish dungeon.
Y/Project’s Parisian roots, low-brow humor and adventurous cuts has earned the label more than a few Vetements comparisons (no a bad thing). All in all, the brand’s SS17 show was a fabulous celebration of trash, glam and kitsch — and I mean that as a compliment.
Valentino Played With Camo and Panthers
Forget the subcultural roots or lofty concepts that define so many high-end designers, Valentino makes luxury clothing, pure and simple. For SS17, the house’s easy, anyone-could-wear-it pieces were given a hefty dose of fan-favorite camo patterns — albeit minus the rugged masculinity that makes military gear so timeless.
A roaring panther, taken from the Valentino archives, looked like a fearsome piece of Sailor Jerry-esque trad tattoo work. A striking motif, especially when set in the sleeves of a baseball jacket — the buyers would be very happy with that one. Likewise the many creamy off-white pieces adorned with burgundy embroidery.
Carven Was Reliably Stylish
If French womenswear is reliably chic, then French menswear is reliably stylish, and not overly showy. That was the overarching theme from Carven’s SS17 collection. The label’s clothes are tailor-made to complement, not overpower. The sparse show space — near empty except for a set of strategically placed ribbons — was filled with a set of energetic dancers, who aptly demonstrated how Carven makes clothes that work well with movement.
It’s not groundbreaking by any means, but not every brand needs to be — there was a distinct sense of everyman-ism to these clothes, and we don’t mean that as a knock. Long live Carven and their reliably stylish clothing.
Today’s biggest draw bar Balenciaga, Haider Ackermann’s show was, much like Y/Project’s in the morning morning, a visual onslaught. Rather than bother with boring ideas of what normal peoples’ wardrobes look like, Ackermann, much like Alessandro Michele’s Gucci, prefers to punch you in the face with statement piece after statement piece.
For SS17, Ackermann’s swash-buckling rogues wore metallic brogues, white asymmetric suits (complete with graphics that made them look burnt — sick), degrade metallic blood-red biker jackets (outrageous), long silk robes (dramatic) and metallic-striped trousers (dastardly). Not much different from the Argentine designer — his glorious buffet of opulence isn’t for the faint-hearted.
- Backstage Photography: Adam Katz Sinding
- Runway Photography: Vogue Runway