Highsnobiety is on the ground at the world’s fashion capitals, bringing you up-to-date reporting on the latest shows and events from the SS17 fashion weeks.
To save you the hassle of checking countless different collection reports, we’re bringing you all the most important happenings in one easy-to-digest daily roundup.
Here’s everything you need to know from Day 4 of Paris Fashion Week SS17.
Kenzo Partied Hard
For SS17, Kenzo is all about that club life. A pounding house soundtrack was the accompaniment to the label’s playful party-wear, which used visually-charged graphics from the flyers of early ’90s raves and some electrifying snakeskin prints. The party spirit is what Kenzo is all about — it’s fashion as a consumer sport, clothing for people who have other things on their mind than thread counts, fabric origins and the like.
Elsewhere, there were cool-but-not-entirely-practical leather polos, and jackets covered in shining metallic grommets. Nothing groundbreaking or life-changing, but a lot of fun anyway.
Sacai Was Commercial in the Best Way
Sacai started with a shock. Luckily that shock was just the bright magenta on the label’s opening looks. The color, which wouldn’t raise an eyebrow on the women’s circuit but remains pretty rare in menswear, appeared throughout. But after that, there was Navajo and other prints seemingly inspired from Persian rugs, all of them strong.
Pinstripes continued to make a comeback — designers are seemingly reclaiming them from badly dressed businessmen. Jumpsuits also appeared here, but they continue to remain something only really suitable for niche activities — like fashion shows.
If, surprisingly, you’re not quite ready for bright magenta, then there’s plenty of dusty pink in the Sacai collection to sate your colorful desires. The dusty pink shade was used to showcase the label’s more desirable items, of which there was plenty. Sacai’s collection was all perfectly wearable while never being boring. It’s the kind of commerciality that a buyer (and consumer) would want in their life – forward thinking without making the wearer look like an idiot, and stylish enough to work in a variety of situations.
Perfect for the man who wants to remain stylishly anonymous.
Reporting by Jason Dike
White Mountaineering Went Gardening
White Mountaineering is one of those shows that feels slightly askew on the Paris schedule. While the brand may flourish in different settings — like a streetwear website — it can lose something when elevated to Paris show schedule levels. This season, White Mountaineering’s collection was essentially split into two halves. The first half was botanically based, with a host of gardening-ready floral patterns used on shirts, outerwear, trousers and sneakers.
The second half showed why adidas claimed prominent billing on the invite. It morphed into a showcase of rather plain adidas tracksuits and tops. Great if you want to sell it via a Paris pop-up and your name’s Kanye West, but not so much on the runway. This part of the collection looked like it’d have been better shown via a different medium, as on the catwalk it looked drab and slightly boring.
But, even after discarding the second half of the collection, there was something missing from this collection. We loathe to end on a pithy line stolen from The Devil Wears Prada, but florals in spring are rarely groundbreaking — even in menswear.
Reporting by Jason Dike
Études Was Solid
Études SS17 is big on loose silhouettes and lightweight fabrics. Nothing revolutionary there — this is a spring collection after all — but the three Parisians make clothing that feels very modern. It’s one of those labels that has a real grasp on what people actually like to wear.
Crinkled fabrics, gratuitous clips and trailing straps added the right amount of interesting eye candy, and the buyers will no doubt be happy at the eye-catching embroideries decorating many of the brand’s pieces. Vast metallic poncho-parachute combos less so, but it wouldn’t be a fashion show with out some wacky, far-out experiments.
All in all, competent but nothing groundbreaking. There’s a high chance you’ll actually see people wearing these clothes at some point, though — and that’s definitely a compliment.
Dior Homme Brought Out A$AP Rocky
Luxury fashion shows can feel like a bit of a publicity stunt at times — especially when you remember that all these big houses are really just making their money from fragrances and accessories. While the collections themselves undoubtedly include some of the most beautifully made clothing in the world, all the front row photographers, celebrity appearances and OTT theatrics can detract from that somewhat. Case in point is Dior Homme’s show, which saw the mega-brand bring out A$AP Rocky and Nick “Swaggy P” Young for some convenient photo ops.
Clothing-wise, Dior’s luxury tailoring featured cyber-goth favorite parachute pants, fetish harnesses and some trousers so baggy you’d be forgiven for thinking that Mudvayne were still together. Elsewhere, combat boots laced all the way down to the toes and staples were scattered all over various suits.
All the house’s gothy, punky, fetishy vibes felt like a bit of a prop when you remembered this is one of the biggest luxury houses on the planet, though — although I suppose that’s inevitable when ready-to-wear is such a minuscule part of a brand’s business.
Hermes Was Unassuming and Expensive
Unpretentious aesthetics, casual styling and outrageously high-end fabrication are Hermes’ calling card. It’s no-nonsense, straight-up luxury clothing crafted to the highest standards imaginable, with butter-soft animal skins that look more expensive per gram than gold.
For SS17, Hermes added a touch of modernity with some zip-up polos and tech sandals, and not one, but two calfskin cardigans — was not expecting anyone to make those. Terry-cloth shorts looked ideal for wearing on a yacht somewhere in the Mediterranean.
That mental image sums up Hermes’ whole outlook really. Unlike like Dior Homme’s show earlier, there were no illusions of subculture or mega-celebrity publicity stunts. It’s very tasteful, very chic, very, very, very expensive clothing for unassuming ballers who spend more on art than they do on flashy cars or blingy watches.
While fashion editors and buyers may fawn over the latest creations of avant-garde geniuses, AMI’s Alexandre Mattiussi can feel quietly satisfied by the fact that his clothes are by far and away the most popular among everyday people. AMI SS17 was business as usual, as Mattiussi’s suiting, sporty track jackets, sweaters and jackets — “les classiques” — were casual, loose and easy as hell to wear. They always are.
That’s the beauty to AMI — there’s a ton of mid-priced French brands that stay on the straight-and-narrow when it comes to Parisian style, but Mattiussi always manages to feel cooler, younger and more carefree.
The views and opinions expressed in this piece are those of the author, and do not necessarily reflect the position of Highsnobiety as a whole.