Highsnobiety is on the ground at the world’s fashion capitals, bringing you up-to-date reporting on the latest shows and events from the SS17 fashion weeks.
To save you the hassle of checking countless different collection reports, we’re bringing you all the most important happenings in one easy-to-digest daily roundup.
Here’s everything you need to know from Day 2 of New York Fashion Week: Men’s SS17. Check out yesterday’s action here.
Tim Coppens Taps Hung-Over Chic
So after a promising first day, Tim Coppens kicked off the second round of NYFW:M presentations with a thumping, post-punk/techno soundtrack to set the tone for his “morning after” inspired SS17 collection – appropriate given the hungover state everyone appeared to be in after a night of endless free booze shenanigans. Reminiscing about the adventures of his hedonistic youth, the Belgian designer, who was recently appointed as the Executive Creative Director of Under Armour Sportswear, sought to whip up a series of decidedly chic streetwear-tinged looks meant to seamlessly transition from daytime leisure to nocturnal thriving to lethargic comedowns (going to need an ace dry cleaner after all of that).
There was color blocking a plenty, with understated tones of black, navy and white contrasted by vibrant jolts of orange, silver and yellow. Blouson bombers, silk tops and breathable knits kept things easy breezy, while the collection’s Under Armour-collaborated pieces (including a range of UA Tech™ tops, windbreakers and track suits) gave a sort of retro ’80s sportswear feel (think Gosha Lite). Another thing that stood out were those drooping karate belts and quilted nylon vests with the bold stitching details, drawing comparisons to yet another designer.
Even if clubbing isn’t your thing (though I personally don’t see myself wearing any of these looks at the club), there’s something for everyone here – a little bit niche without the novelty.
Gypsy Sport Brought Out NYC’s Weirdest
For me, Gypsy Sport’s show represented everything I love about living in New York – it was wacky, unpredictable, vivacious and celebrated people from all walks of life, where age, gender, sexuality and socioeconomic background were free from discrimination. During a recent interview with i-D, the label’s founder, Rio Uribe, said “There’s a scene in Star Wars where they go to a bar and there is every kind of alien from the whole universe sitting and having a drink. That’s New York.” Nails it, really.
Early pioneers of the gender-bending fashion revolution, the label brought forth its underground tribe of pan-ethnic creatives to present yet another range of progressive and androgynous sportswear. A soundtrack of abrasive IDM, queer hip-hop and funk carioca (VERY New York) accompanied models down a faux grass-lined catwalk while dizzying projections of colorful anime flashed in the background. Reworking an ankh into the trademark NBA symbol, SS17 was a medley of bold, primary-colored looks meant for a basketball match between urban aliens.
Tanks were cropped and embellished with sheer fabric, elongated jerseys with pearl straps featured flapper-like tasseling at the bottom, track pants and jumpers were de-masculinized with frilly lace and apron attachments. Turbans were given the Cousin It treatment with tassels that covered models’ entire faces, while baseball caps and visors featured brightly colored go-go dancer-style wigs. All very wearable stuff (kidding).
Is Gypsy Sport for everyone? Of course not. But it doesn’t need to be. Fashion needs its gutsy enfant terribles because they’re what make this (oftentimes) stuffy industry interesting and open-minded. Besides, normcore and minimal are very passé.
Stampd Salutes the Military
Stampd stuck to the usual aesthetic we’ve come to know the brand for – militaristic streetwear with “modern masculine sensibility” (according to the press release). Signature Stampd sartorial motifs such as bulky bombers, distressed denim and strap embellishments were tempered by the usual color palette of creamy whites, earthy browns, black and white. Business per usual for the brand really, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing.
Robert Geller Reminisces ’80s Berlin
Designer Robert Geller tapped his German roots this season, harking back to the early ’80s new wave music scene of Berlin. Honing in on progressive pioneers such as Nina Hagen, Einstürzende Neubauten and Palais Schaumburg, Geller tapped the aggro-creativity and punkish rebellion of people who demanded artistic freedom from those dissonant years before the Berlin Wall was ultimately demolished.
Statements were made loud and clear. The words “Berlin Brennt” (Berlin Burns) ran down the sleeves of long tees, the saying “Aus Lauter Liebe” (loosely translated as “from loud love”) was emblazoned on the back of one jacket and “Geniale Dilletanten” (a term used to announce concerts held in Berlin’s influential post-punk venue, Tempodrom) was slapped across flat record bags. Though Geller drew inspiration from one of Germany’s darkest eras, he sought to emphasize the youthful optimism held by the city’s thriving art scene with a few quirky touches – pops of neon, tonal leopard jacquard getups, stripes, fur ball keychains and polaroid adornments.
While some may argue that the spirit of punk is dead and gone, Geller certainly proved otherwise. Sehr dope.
N.Hoolywood Goes Scuba Diving
Remember when neoprene was a thing? Though tech sportswear, especially of the monochromatic variety, was all the rage back in 2014 (RIP health goth), scuba fabric appears to be making a comeback – at least for N.Hoolywood designer Daisuke Obana. For SS17, Obana tapped his inner Jacques Cousteau for a collection inspired by the deep blue sea.
Taking color cues from an “ecosphere so full of lights and colors not seen on land” (deep navy, seaweed green, coral red, sand, etc), the collection not once swayed from its nautical theme. Models in swim shoes strutted in sporty scuba gear with bold color blocked patterns, button-ups with geometrical seashell graphics, pinstripe sailor suits and droopy fisherman-style knits.
Hot off its collaboration with Vetements, sportswear giant Reebok snuck in a few collaborated pieces via a series of windbreakers, dri-knit tees and neoprene sweatshirts. But that’s not the only brand N.Hoolywood worked with this season; SS17 also saw partnerships with Lee, PORTER, New Balance, Mountain Hardwear and ayame, making this the season of designer collaborations, apparently. I guess team work does make the dream work.
The views and opinions expressed in this piece are those of the author, and do not necessarily reflect the position of Highsnobiety as a whole.