In what was probably going to be the most highly-anticipated moment of the entire SS17 season, Anthony Vaccarello made his Saint Laurent debut on the opening night of Paris Fashion Week. The Italian-Belgian designer stayed true to the house’s DNA and injected it with a bit of his own sexed-up glamour, as Saint Laurent classics — smoking jackets, leg of mutton sleeves, glitzy leopard print — were all brought back from Yves’s glorious ’80s era, in a palette dominated by black, black and more black.
Revealing elements winked at Vacarello’s own work, which is renowned for its dramatic, flesh-exposing cutouts, although this was mainly about reinvigorating the house’s own codes and bringing them back for modern-day customers.
Basically, it’s all about the ’80s power babe vibes, and a faithful recreation of Yves’s legendary aesthetic. “Everyone has their own interpretation, and I know I can’t please everyone,” Vacarello told Business of Fashion after the show. “But neither could Yves.”
Watch Vaccarello’s first campaign video for the house below.
- Images: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv