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You might be forgiven for thinking Maison Margiela’s latest outing was a dedicated patchwork of deconstructed, minimalist tailoring. Especially when you consider the first half of the show clung to a relatively tame palette.

However, by the end of the collection, we’ve journeyed from surgically cut-out beige trench coats to a carnival-esque cocktail of statement feather headpieces with plenty of graphic, colorful detailing.

The Parisian house’s previous SS17 collection didn’t make much sense either but it’s never supposed to. John Galliano, the label’s current maestro, doesn’t abandon the house’s deconstructionist roots either, and spliced lapels on jackets and shredded details reoccur throughout the entire collection, in clear homage to Martin Margiela’s overarching legacy.

Galliano doesn’t unleash the acidic flavors all at once, either. Instead, the collection is a carefully calculated story and legendary make-up artist Pat McGrath works her magic to help tell this particular tale. Washed out, icy beauty looks set the tone in the beginning, before silly string wigs and nomadic paint prime the senses for the wilder looks to come.

Standout pieces include a cut-out letterman jacket, bags worn as hats, a snake print shirt with plaid scarf details and a deceivingly simple black crewneck with droopy sleeves.

For more fashion news, take a look at Saint Laurent’s ready-to-wear FW17 collection.

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  • Photography: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
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