The womenswear circuit has unanimously disavowed sensible accessories. The SS17 runways peddled everything from mutant two-sided cowboy boots at Hood by Air to Marc Jacobs’ mile-high platform boots to Christoper Kane’s gemstone crocs. Not to mention the techno-raver shades at Celine, or the XXL laundry bags at Balenciaga.
Accessories are no longer a dainty afterthought or a delicate finish to an everyday look. The trend takeaway for SS17 is that a good accessory should aspire to be an obtrusive eyesore of statement-making proportions.
All of the big fashion names rely on a polarizing piece, whether it’s an accessory or a shoe or an element of an outfit, in order to create buzz and conversation. After all, the show schedule at every major fashion week is increasingly saturated, and a show-stopper of a piece, however ugly, is valuable currency.
We take a closer look at the accessories trends that the womenswear world is swooning over right now.
The Return of the Louis Vuitton Logo Bag
For SS17, Nicolas Ghesquière sent fashion editors into a frothy-mouthed frenzy with iPhone cases that mimicked the house’s iconic monogrammed trunks, complete with studs and all. At the brand’s showroom, Elle reported editors clamoring over each other for a closer look at said cases, and though the phone cases have yet to be released, they have already revived a trend for LV monogrammed madness.
Nope, it’s not 2002, but this past FW17 fashion month saw every street style capital embrace many a pouch or backpack adorned with the classic LV print. Why not take the trend further and follow Kylie Jenner’s cue to take this SS17 trend back to the ’90s with an LV bandeau?
Lil Kim perfected the tinted shades at the Grammys back in 2002 but they’re now back on the runways at Miu Miu, Celine, Loewe, and Gucci Resort 2017. From rimless shades to metal frames to sculpted silhouettes, tinted shades can now be found in an array of fruity hues, varying from amber to rose to cobalt blue.
Needless to say, Bella Hadid was recently spotted out and about in a pair of rose-tinted shades, lending this trend some major traction, and we don’t expect it to fade away anytime soon.
This is hardly a surprise given that waist-bags have long enjoyed trending status among the streetwear set for a while, but it seems that the upper-echelon of fashion is finally catching on too. Designers from Alexander Wang to Kenzo and most recently, Louis Vuitton x Supreme (the first look from the brand’s FW17 collection featured a Supreme emblazoned bumbag) have all taken the accessory once synonymous with tourists and overzealous rollerbladers to a new aesthetic plane.
Given that Kendall Jenner was spotted at Paris Fashion Week this month with rumored beau A$AP Rocky wearing a waist-bag number, it’s safe to say the trend for compact, functional luggage will last the season.
The Fetish “O” Choker
Fashion’s kinky, sadomasochist tendencies have been bubbling on the runways since FW12, when everyone from Marc Jacobs to Louis Vuitton was sending out racy looks with latex, PVC, and leather. Since then, designers such as Alexander Wang, Jeremy Scott, Rihanna’s Fenty PUMA line and more recently, ALYX have all caught on to embrace the tamed-out O-ring choker and BDSM-inspired accessories.
Now, it seems the street style set are rehashing fashion’s love for fetish gear, and it’s not a trend just for womenswear, especially given that gay men have long loved sado-sexy underground club uniforms. Take a look at our editorial featuring some of our favorite fetish-themed lingerie brands.
The SS17 shows featured a literal explosion of enormous earrings in ridiculous shapes. From Gucci’s opulent pearl-encrusted ear plates to Delpozo’s shoulder-length chandelier earrings to Proenza Schouler’s long totemic earrings featuring dangling geometric shapes, the earlobes were a canvas for experimentation. Yet, the runaway trend that’s really caught on this season is the single statement earring.
Who’s responsible? Well, SS17 saw J.W. Anderson send out silver bells of all sizes swinging from one lone shoulder duster. Virgil Abloh’s Off-White favored XXL lengths, where rectangle bars resembling popsicle sticks hung from skinny gold wires. In fact, the earrings were so long they reached the model’s chest.
Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga opted for oversized ’80s-inspired studs, and at Saint Laurent, it was all about heavy metal with burnished gold singles. At Rodarte, sculptural style earrings were chained together with semi-precious gems and Mary Katrantzou indulged her Greek heritage and pioneered the lone statement earring with a slew of enlarged, single olive-leaf earrings in electric blue, gold and yellow.
Aside from the pervasive trend for oversized sole statement earrings, it looks as though hoop earrings are another ‘90s banger coming back in a big way.
The ‘90s mega hoop was a firm fave of everyone from J-Lo to Lauryn Hill to the raucous British “chav” stereotype, however, it is the likes of Givenchy, Celine, and NYC-up-and-comers AREA who are all redrawing the accessory with some XXL zeal today. It’s important to acknowledge the winding cultural legacy of this long overlooked accessory, which has been adopted by a range of cultures around the world throughout history, from its popularization during the Black Power movement in the 1960s to its fixed place in ’90s Chola style.
Today, it is the likes of Kendall Jenner and Rihanna bringing the hoop back to the masses for a new generation to enjoy. Kendall paired her throwback accessories with a pair of Matrix-inspired glasses clawed straight off Neo’s face, and Rihanna wore the same pair of glitzy hoops by AREA on her sublime new cover for PAPER magazine’s latest issue.
The Bottomless Bag
The big bag theory was widely probed on the SS17 runways. Balenciaga’s XL laundry bags were large and in charge, and Celine’s crisp white totes could easily fit in a kitchen sink. At Givenchy and Sonia Rykiel, there was one dominant styling hack to take note of, and that’s to simply carry your XL tote with just one handle. The key to this dangerous look is putting not much of anything into your humongous bag to begin with.
The Itty, Bitty Bag
At the other end of the fashion’s size-based spectrum, the industry proves itself to be lovingly unpractical once again, with a slew of designers churning out a procession of itty, bitty bags just about big enough for a credit card. The micro-bag trend has been percolating for a while, and it was kickstarted by Fendi last year.
For SS17, everyone from Valentino to Chloè to Givenchy to Hermès to Celine all followed suit with teeny, weeny bags that are beautifully useless. It’s an excellent way to downsize your daily essentials to a credit card, a piece of ID and perhaps a painkiller to dull the stress of having to deal with a ridiculously tiny bag in the first place.
When you consider that the two biggest spring luggage trends are totally antithetical, it does make you wonder why fashion repeatedly forgets it has to serve a practical purpose from time to time?
Huge Waist Belts
It’s probably fair to attribute some credit to the Kardashian clan, but it seems the cinched in silhouette is back in business. On the SS17 runways, designers from J.W. Anderson at Loewe to Isabel Marant to Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga to Prada all sucked it in and spotlighted the midsection with some bold belt treatment.
However, it was Rihanna at Fenty PUMA who gave the new corset-like effect some traditional Marie Antoinette appeal, showing traditional corsets with some streetwear steez. There’s no doubt the “waist trainer” effect will go viral among the street style set, especially given this edgy styling trick is so easy to pull off. Simply layering a waist-whittling corset bustier over a clean button-down shirt is enough to elevate your everyday style to photographer catnip.
Even though theatrical headpieces are a given at conceptual fashion shows, the SS17 shows managed to permeate another realm of eccentricity. I don’t doubt the fashionistas flocking to the street style capitals each season have taken note.
From the glass-like antenna-esque structures at COMME des GARÇONS to Jacquemus’ hulking straw hats to Maison Margiela’s laser-cut, skin-tight swimming cap-like hats that covered half of the head, expect to see your fave in a weird hat, stat. On the NYFW runways, off-kilter headwear was just as popular, with Thom Browne sending out floral-patterned showercaps, but we can expect more subtle statement-making hairpieces to gain traction among the masses for spring.
Below, Adam Katz Sinding captures an off-duty model leaving Maison Margiela Couture Spring 2017 with her intricate show headpiece intact, and there’s no doubt this simple yet impactful style hack could inspire a runaway street style phenomenon this spring.
For more fashion content, check out the biggest trends going in 2017.
- Cover Image: Kendall Jenner