Location: Paris, France
Season: Spring/Summer 2018
Key Pieces: Oversized topcoats with school crests, relaxed pajama shirts, tweed pilot jackets, steel-toed boots, regatta stripe shirts, and hand-painted camo parkas.
Editor’s Notes: OAMC’s show notes began with a quote from Allen Ginsberg’s 1954 “Song” poem: “The weight of the world is love. Under the burden of solitude, under the burden of dissatisfaction,” quoted the label. Despite some mixed feelings about whether politics and fashion can ever truly exist as a meaningful form of protest and awareness, designers and newly-minted Jil Sander creative directors Luke and Lucie Meier decided to tackle that question in their latest OAMC collection.
Military shapes were reimagined with contrasting proportions and graphics inspired by political movements of the past, accentuated with an extreme attention to craft manifested in details like hand-painted camos, patchwork, and embroidery. Notes of collegiate style shone through the use of school crests and reimagined prep staples like tweed coats and sweater vests.
Overall, the theme of protest seemed more subdued than explicit in the execution, although the “People for Peace” slogans seem more aligned with appealing to causes a broad variety of consumers can rally behind (is anyone ostensibly not for peace?) than with actually drawing attention to issues that matter. But perhaps, whenever the revolution happens, at least the uniform will look great.
For more SS18 fashion week coverage, check out Balenciaga’s latest collection.