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Designer: Helmut Lang Seen By Shayne Oliver

Location: New York

Season: Spring/Summer 2018

Key Pieces: Bright orange foil leather trench coats, cream white topcoats with side belts, bra bags, red leather vests, and screen-printed button-down shirts.

Editor’s Notes: Shayne Oliver, the buzzed-about designer of defunct label Hood By Air, flexed a new muscle with his first collection for Helmut Lang. Set to a soundtrack by Total Freedom, which included Whitney Houston’s “I Have Nothing,” the clothes shined with Oliver’s penchant for aggressive proportion and gender-fluid silhouettes with a strong bondage inspiration. The latter is especially a strong fit for Helmut Lang, which is also bringing back several iconic pieces like the bondage-strapped bomber jacket for its “Re-Edition” collection.

Oliver’s HBA was also known for its prominent graphics, something he applies to Helmut Lang in the form of shirts and accessories emblazoned with the label’s name. One bag even featured a newsprint-inspired graphic with the headline: “UNCOMMON ACTION IN A SOCIETY OF REPRESSED THOUGHTS.” All in all, the collection was a welcome departure for Helmut Lang, and a promising step towards a more interesting future for the label and Shayne Oliver.

Now check out the shirt Shayne Oliver designed for Vogue’s 125th anniversary.

Words by Jian DeLeon
Editorial Director

Jian DeLeon is the Editorial Director at Highsnobiety. He is based in New York.

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