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Designer: Helmut Lang Seen By Shayne Oliver

Location: New York

Season: Spring/Summer 2018

Key Pieces: Bright orange foil leather trench coats, cream white topcoats with side belts, bra bags, red leather vests, and screen-printed button-down shirts.

Editor’s Notes: Shayne Oliver, the buzzed-about designer of defunct label Hood By Air, flexed a new muscle with his first collection for Helmut Lang. Set to a soundtrack by Total Freedom, which included Whitney Houston’s “I Have Nothing,” the clothes shined with Oliver’s penchant for aggressive proportion and gender-fluid silhouettes with a strong bondage inspiration. The latter is especially a strong fit for Helmut Lang, which is also bringing back several iconic pieces like the bondage-strapped bomber jacket for its “Re-Edition” collection.

Oliver’s HBA was also known for its prominent graphics, something he applies to Helmut Lang in the form of shirts and accessories emblazoned with the label’s name. One bag even featured a newsprint-inspired graphic with the headline: “UNCOMMON ACTION IN A SOCIETY OF REPRESSED THOUGHTS.” All in all, the collection was a welcome departure for Helmut Lang, and a promising step towards a more interesting future for the label and Shayne Oliver.

Now check out the shirt Shayne Oliver designed for Vogue’s 125th anniversary.

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