Brand: Rough and Tumble
Key Pieces: Sports-inspired graphic tees, lightweight topcoats and blazers, shorts and tees with a bit of sheen, longline band collar shirts, ruched trousers and unstructured sportcoats
Editor’s Notes: Rough and Tumble started as a way for Engineered Garments designer Daiki Suzuki to rework the classic American oxford shirt. Experimenting with different methods of production like patchwork and bolder materials, the line has since evolved into something of a little brother to Engineered Garments, and is now one of the many lines under EG’s parent company, Nepenthes.
The company is also known for its outdoors bag brand, South2Wes8, and Needles, the ’70s and Western-influenced label by Nepenthes CEO Keizo Shimizu. Needles is currently on everyone’s radar for making the fashion crowd’s go-to pair of trackpants. For Rough and Tumble’s latest collection, Suzuki was inspired to make something that contrasted Engineered Garments’ SS18 collection, which is infused with plenty of color reminiscent of reggae style and ’90s sportswear.
That’s why he’s chosen to make everything in black. As he puts it in a statement from the company: “Black can have many memories, it can say so many things, reminds me of NYC years ago and all the many things it represents then and now. Black can have so many tones, in that, so many colors, so many textures, from there came the thought of using all black for the entire line.”
The monotone collection gets variety from the materials used, ranging from warm weather-appropriate cottons and linens to sportier nylons and mesh. Pieces like ruched trousers and boxy tees are elevated in an iridescent sateen, adding a little luxury to the otherwise casual collection. Eagle-eyed fashion heads will notice the lookbook’s model is Abdul Abasi, co-designer of up-and-coming menswear line Abasi Rosborough.
“All black monotone outfits with slight shades in textures from layering and mismatching, creating a diaphanous dress of black in many backgrounds, like NYC today,” adds Suzuki.
The company also wanted to emphasize that, like Engineered Garments, Rough and Tumble continues to be manufactured in New York’s diminishing Garment District.
Now check out the colorful reggae and ’90s-inspired collection for Engineered Garments SS18.