In a Paris Fashion Week characterized by the students of the synthesis between street culture and high fashion exhibiting themselves as masters, Matthew Williams’ debut show for 1017 ALYX 9SM continued to carve out his own lane in a new fashion paradigm increasingly run by his contemporaries.
It’s amazing that in the past few days, the three members of creative collective-turned internet-fueled streetwear brand BEEN TRILL have gone on to show their collections at Paris Fashion Week. This season in particular saw Virgil Abloh’s debut as Louis Vuitton’s Men’s Artistic Director, a show followed by Heron Preston’s SS19 “En Vogue” collection. Williams’ own show happened the day after Kim Jones’ first collection for Dior mens, a hotly-anticipated debut that Williams was tapped for, designing belt buckles that blended the house’s CD motif’s with Williams’ popular belts modeled after roller coaster safety clasps.
The theme of 1017 ALYX 9SM’s collection was protection, although it featured plenty of the darkly elegant utility that has characterized Williams’ previous work. Comfort and movement are notions he visits in his new collaboration with Nike, S19-ALYX-ANE, a line of performance garments tinged with Williams’ distinct fashion codes, and his first sneaker with the sportswear label, a unisex technical shoe built on Nike’s Free sole, and enhanced with tactical rubber gaiters from Italian sole manufacturer Vibram.
Dubbed the S19-NIKE-MMW, the shoe complements the line’s language, and speaks to Williams’ desire to create an overarching narrative in his designs. He wore a pair backstage while holding himself up on crutches, currently recovering from a knee injury.
“This show kind of represents everything I’ve done up until now,” says Williams. “We just showed the codes of our brand.”
One of the first people to congratulate Williams after the show was Kanye West, perhaps one of the bigger figures who helped provide the source code for Williams’ new language. The interaction was brief but filled with emotion. Two college dropouts acknowledged they had graduated on their own terms.
Check out the street style from the show right here.