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FACETASM's FW19 show was set inside Paris' stunning but admittedly rather sombre Church of Saint-Merri. Throw in an electrifying soundtrack by Black Pus and the result was a galvanizing juxtaposition of beauty, disorder, and liberation — a perfect set-up for the collection the followed.
The show notes were sparse in terms of references, leaving journalists with a poem (author unknown) that spoke of owls, lions, fragmented joy, and how "brown bubbles overflow from our bodies."
The collection escaped the kind of language usually given to new fashion collections, simply because there was so much of it, with most items containing many different styles within single garments.
Among the men's and women's designs, there were jeans with back pockets on the front, puffy purple gilets, Roger Rabbit, pants fastened with a belt looped around the shoulder, lion prints, owl prints, galaxy prints, shearling inside denim, cricket jumpers knitted into pants, sports jerseys, and lots and lots of tulle.
Designer Hiromichi Ochiai clearly wants to tap into our imaginations here, to find more freedom in the possibilities of fashion than what is prescribed by societal norms. There was a feeling that this is how children might dress if you let them rummage through boxes of clothes, a feeling hammered home by the inclusion of pointed cone hats, theatrical make-up, and smatterings of red/green/blue pigtails.
A line from the poem in the show notes read, "Children's laughter / Melts into a rainbow of ecstasy." The suggestion seemed to be that when adults choose clothes without fear, with a joyous disregard for order, it's a good thing, a welcome antidote to the overarching seriousness of the dystopian, unsmiling fashion that has been circulating for the past few seasons.
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