We’re just past halfway through the year, meaning the second round of fashion weeks has come and gone. Whereas the Fall/Winter 2019 fashion shows promised tie-dye prints and over-layered styling, the Spring/Summer 2020 collections leaned toward genderless design, wild accessories, and every shade of pink and purple you can imagine.
Highsnobiety was on the ground in London, Florence, Milan, Shanghai, and Paris. So, to conclude this season of fashion weeks, we’ve asked our style team to name the brands whose looks stood out most and what exactly they’ll be copping in 12 months time.
From rising New York City designer Emily Adams Bode to “Antwerp Six” alumni Ann Demeulemeester and Dries Van Noten, cult German brand GmbH to heavy hitters Prada and Raf Simons, here are the brands and designers that impressed us most on the SS20 runway.
“Emily showed for the first time in Paris this season, and she of course rose to the occasion. Her attention to detail and highly artisanal practices were hard to miss, as every piece of clothing was clearly made with such care. She also had the models walk at a very slow pace, giving the guests a chance to really inspect the garments.
“The look above stands out the most to me because of the color combinations and the silhouette. It’s chic and modern while also being reminiscent of classic circus outfits, which was a major inspiration for her this season. Emily used her references to create a timeless collection. I also love that this would look just great on a woman as much as it does on this model. SS20 men’s did a lot of redefining masculinity, and for me, BODE had a collection that helped spearhead this debate.”
— Noah Thomas, assistant editor
“The entire Ann D collection is how I would ideally love to dress during the summer months. This look specifically felt effortless, chic, poetic, but still intentional — all the things I aspire to while getting dressed.”
— Corey Stokes, fashion editor-at-large
“I was living for GmbH’s SS20 collection this season. One of my favorite things about the label is how it takes quite ordinary items, such as the Cyrus Jeans from SS18, and elevates them with a tasty detail like a double-fly zip. From SS20, a key item for me was the white tank top, which can be seen in the example above with a double-strap construction and an impactful evil eye motif on the front. What could be better?”
— Max Grobe, associate fashion editor
“I am very much here for post-Calvin Klein angry Raf Simons. The not-so-subtle political overtones of this collection stole the headlines, but I also liked how it included some references for the heads: see the “Stoned America” motif referencing the classic “American Recycling” tee from the early ’00s. Such “charged” design could easily err on the side of corny, but at 51, Raf still gets it (we’ll ignore the rubbish “Drugs” collection from last year).
“Honorary shouts go to Rick Owens and his United Farm Workers Aztec collab, Sies Marjan for coming through with yet more fabulous pink coats, and Jun Takahashi’s achingly good tailoring.”
— Graeme Campbell, style editor
“It has been an amazing season for men’s fashion and my favourite collections include Lanvin, BODE, and GmbH. But Prada’s SS20 collection was yet again a surprise and it’s hard to pick only one look. The all-black outfits are very strong, but the color-blocked outdoor-inspired looks pop even more.
“I’m in love with the color mixes, but if I had to decide, I would go for the all-beige look. It’s simple and elevated and brings the once very sporty Linea Rossa line to a whole new level — it’s part of the main collection now. Prada is Prada.”
— Herbert Hofmann, creative director and head of buying commerce
“Ami gets ‘real dressing’ so right without ever being boring. This earthy-toned look from their latest collection shows exactly that. So often designers overstyle their runway collections only for the product that later hits stores to feel disconnected. This isn’t that. Instead you want to buy the full look. That’s a standout look to me.”
— Christopher Morency, editor-at-large
Dries Van Noten
“Dries Van Noten’s theme of “archi-fluidity” touches on many things — dynamic masculinity, sexuality, and the obsolescence of certain uniform tropes — mixing them to reflect a more modern approach to dressing. This flower-embroidered coat is made from a very breathable fabric with a bit of sheen, fusing ’90s nostalgia with a street edge and a bit of a femme softness. Paired with military trousers and a psychedelic frock shirt, it definitely still sticks out in my mind.”
— Jian DeLeon, editorial director