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Fumito Ganryu isn't some new, up-and-coming designer. He learned the ropes under the COMME des GARÇONS umbrella, where he worked on menswear and once cut patterns for Junya Watanabe's line. Later, his eponymous GANRYU line, a COMME des GARÇONS subsidiary, offered a conduit for the designer's own vision of menswear.

Finally, last year, he struck out on his own, branded under his full name and becoming one of the featured designers at last season's Pitti Uomo, the illustrious menswear tradeshow in Florence, Italy. This season, he made his Paris Fashion Week debut, a promising showing of exaggerated menswear pieces that toed the line between familiar and directional.

Ganryu's outerwear has always been exceptional, and it continues to be the star here, although his collaborative footwear with Suicoke was also an attention-grabber. Mixing comfortable sandals with running soles and hints of neoprene, the footwear offered a quiet modernity for the techwear set.

Standout pieces include oversized toggle coats in shades of tan, charcoal gray, and black. The proportions hit the sweet spot between fashionably imposing and cozy comfort. In keeping the color story relatively simple and grounded in an essential menswear palette, Ganryu was freed up to have a bit more fun with the silhouettes.

Take, for example, a down blazer dialed up to 11. The peak lapels, two-button stance, and kimono-inspired sleeves exemplified a philosophy the designer describes as "Generosity + X." Put simply, it's not that Ganryu merely makes his gear oversized, the "X" factor is the amount of thought that goes into making the clothes go that extra mile.

For more from Paris, TAKAHIROMIYASHITATheSoloist delivered a dark, twisted fantasy in his French runway debut.

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