With Copenhagen Fashion Week in full swing, local boys Han Kjøbenhavn took to a disused industrial space in the city’s rundown Christiania district to unveil their FW16 collection. A troupe of boys sporting menacing DIY masks marched down a dusty runway, to a hellish soundtrack that consisted of pounding drums and very little else. The models then lined up in front of a huge makeshift teddy bear-god creation, before affixing DIY breathing apparatus to their faces. Big Mad Max vibes, basically.
“We created these fanatics, they’re like football hooligans feeding off their god,” the brand’s founders Jannik Wikkelsø Davidsen and Tim Faith Hancock explained backstage. “It’s their way of worshipping.” Han Kjøbenhavn’s metaphor for fanaticism matched the brand’s collection, which paid tribute to the sports teams that the duo were so devoted to in their youths.
“The collection is based on our youth in the suburbs of Copenhagen, where the local football clubs played a huge part of our lives,” the Danes continued. “We mixed up training gear with leather jackets, denim and fur coats – faux fur, of course, the suburbs aren’t rich.” That means equal parts throwback sportswear and kitsch menswear classics, furthering the ’70s nostalgia that seems to be inspiring so many designers these days.
The athletic half of the collection consisted of jacquard-patterned jerseys, track jackets and skin-tight sweatpants, many of which sported branding from obscure industrial sponsors – just like your local lower-league football team.
Faux fur jackets and leather bikers made up the second half of menswear nostalgia, with a gratuitous helping of acid-washed denim adorning everything from jeans to some surprisingly desirable puffer jackets. Along with Patta, who paid tribute to the fabric in its latest Levi’s collab, it seems Han Kjøbenhavn is a brand that’s determined to resurrect one of the menswear world’s more overlooked varieties of denim.
Pants were either cut high – well above the ankle – or drooped low thanks to some not-entirely-necessary, but nonetheless pretty dope zips on the front of the ankle. Color-wise, the collection’s palette mixed purple, teal and that aforementioned denim, which made for an uneasy palette that was probably better left back in time, to be quite honest.
- Photographer: Eva Al Desnudo / Highsnobiety.com