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With New York Fashion Week well underway (the women’s one, New York Fashion Week: Men’s was a few weeks back), Shayne Oliver’s Hood By Air label took to home turf to unveil its FW16 collection. Titled “Pilgrimage,” Oliver’s army of gothed-up, gender-vague cross-dressers marched out in a collection that played heavily with notions of travel (hence the name).

HBA’s trademark deconstructed fetishism was accompanied by HBA-branded barcoded airport luggage tags, with plastic wraps making models look like luggage in transit. PVC featured heavily among the garments – most strikingly on a pair of waist-high waders (which there’s probably a fetish for, somewhere).

The deconstruction theme was furthered by zippered puffer jackets that had half their torsos removed, and paneled shirting that was held together only by clips.

Hood By Air’s staple Avalanche boot was reissued in striking PVC – a recurring motif throughout the collection, while knee-high wader boots accompanied the extra-high trousers Oliver used.

For more from New York, check out Alexander Wang’s latest collection, as well as our op-ed on why the city’s dedicated menswear week is lacking.

Words by Alec Leach
Freelance Writer/Editor/Consultant

Alec Leach grew up in Brighton, England, but now lives in Berlin