Issey Miyake might be the least talked about but most worn fashion brand there is. Perhaps that’s its power.

The signature pleated fabric garments from its Homme Plissé line are back on the rise, with everyone from Solange to your local high schooler with taste buying into the clothes.

Miyake and his team are most likely aware of the recent resurgence, so the brand swapping its main line’s show spot on the Paris Fashion Week Calendar with Homme Plissé was bold but clever.

For the first runway outing of the line, the Miyake Design Studio delivered a spectacle.

There were so many fanboy attendees wearing Miyake’s Homme Plissé designs that nearly no one noticed the dozen models wearing bright pink, yellow and blue colorblocked outfits, taking a position in front of trees at The Louis XIII gardens. Each walked from tree to tree greeting each other, dressed in child-like colored tees, ankle-length trousers and momsy vests. Camaraderie was in the air.

More Miyake tribe members joined the walk. They then ran. By that point their sartorial choices had become more mature, with Printed grandad shirts, hats and espadrilles, as did the casting. It was a message that Homme Plissé is democratic, not bound by age or experience.

Contemporary dancers came in dressed in earthy cream and khaki tones reiterating the power of Homme Plissé, which is moveability. They’re clothes meant to be worn, lived in and cherished. There is a purpose for avant-garde fashion, which is to make you dream and give context to the time it lives in, but if not sellable, what is the power does the garment hold?

And wearable clothes were, with the next chapter of the show’s story – each section had a different type of casting, soundtrack and pleated color palette – being dancers running in, jumping, breakdancing, salsa, body popping and guys playing football. Then came the rain, umbrella’s opened and doom was upon us.

But the sun triumphed so the party could start. In came the drum squad, fully decked out in one-colored Homme Plissé looks. A humble fashion show turned into a dance party with attendees mingling with models and musicians. Everyone laughed, and Issey Miyake won the day. What’s fashion without joy.

Toronto-born, bred in The Netherlands, living in London.

What To Read Next