In a completely unsurprising move, LMVH has announced Kris Van Assche will replace Haider Ackermann as artistic director at Berluti.
Van Assche departed Dior Homme after 11 years last month. The news is the latest chapter in the 2018 LMVH fashion merry-go-round which has seen Hedi Slimane join Celine, Kim Jones join Dior Homme, and Virgil Abloh join Louis Vuitton. Riccardo Tisci has also signed on at Burberry,
Van Assche had been strongly linked with Berluti for some time, with speculation reaching boiling point Ackerman’s departure was announced last week. The Belgian all but confirmed the move when he announced he would be taking up a new role within the LMVH group, albeit did not state where.
“I am delighted to welcome Kris Van Assche to Berluti,” said Berluti chief executive Antoine Arnault. “I have known him for several years, have always admired his work at Dior Homme and I am looking forward to working with him.”
Van Assche succeeded Hedi Slimane at Dior and heavily championed tailoring throughout his time at the company. “All of the cool-kids that come in their loose streetwear clothing try on our suiting and they love it… We push back against this idea that tailoring is over,” he said in an interview back in January. In step with that view, Van Assche recruited the likes of A$AP Rocky and The xx’s Oliver Sim to star in his campaigns.
Van Assche will show his first Berluti collection in January.
What’s next for Ackermann, meanwhile, remains to be seen. The designer joined Berluti in September 2016 in what was seen as a surprising move at the time. The Frenchman shook up the brand’s image, adding a more feminine edge to its tailored suiting and softening the overall aesthetic. Actor Timothée Chalamet became something of a muse for Ackermann in his latter time at the brand and was regularly spotted in his suits over awards season, most notably rocking this all-white tuxedo to the Oscars.
What do you think of Van Assche’s appointment at Dior Homme? And where could you see Ackermann ending up next? Lanvin? Let us know in the comments below.
In other fashion news, CDG is launching a new “internet-based” brand.
- Main and Featured Image: PATRICK KOVARIK / AFP / Getty Images