Spend a bit of time on the Milan Fashion Week circuit, and you’ll soon realize there’s two cities. One celebrates its past glories on the runway, with lavish shows that bring out iconic supermodels and clothes that scream luxury. The other is hell-bent on forgetting everything about the past, and is building a new scene in the city, seemingly from scratch.
Marni creative director Francesco Risso is from the latter. His work for the house is simultaneously whimsical and dense, and for SS19, the young designer pulled from seemingly ever sporting uniform under the sun, and showed them in an underground car park. “I dreamed of these imperfect athletes, dressed in their own nostalgic sport uniforms” Risso described. “Vulnerability and tenderness are their powerful strength”.
Risso’s guys went to compete in clothes that didn’t fit them, wearing clown-sized canvas shoes, double-layered tees and soft tailoring. Risso’s imagination compelled the designer to turn sleeping bags into puffer jackets, towels into duffel bags and, from the looks of it, kids’ curtains into robes. He also cast greying gentlemen (always a vibe, no matter the show) and had his guests sitting on medicine balls.
Risso’s vision of Marni isn’t an easy sell — “he’s been watching too much Magic Roundabout” one buyer muttered after the show — but in a city dominated by glitz and glam, his oddball contraptions are a breath of fresh air.