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Designer: Martine Rose

Location: London, UK

Season: Spring/Summer 2018

Key Pieces: Martine Rose’s love for the logo T-shirt gets a bold, retro update and while the designer’s signature irregular suiting gets some sporty styling and it’s all sublime.

Editor’s Notes: This season, it was Toronto’s underground scene of the ‘80s and ‘90s which piqued Rose’s curiosity. The result is an update to the uniforms of the painfully ordinary, particularly bike messengers and those who courier as a side hustle next to more creative, countercultural pursuits.

The most pedestrian of outerwear gets the Rose treatment. The high-performance outdoor windbreaker and raincoat your dad probably still wears are now going to be all the rage next spring, all thanks to Rose.

Rose’s reinterpretation of outdoor clothing staples stem from Trevor Hughe’s photo series from the ‘90s, which captured the city’s underground culture. Rose translates Hughe’s portraits of ordinary bike couriers applying distinctive off-key styling choices, to rigidly functional uniforms into her own collection of zany dad-wear.

Want more SS18 fashion week coverage? Check out Matthew Miller’s latest show.

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Words by Kam Dhillon