Martine Rose, arguably one of the most popular designers of London Fashion Week Men’s, took her chances on the city’s notoriously unreliable weather to show her SS19 collection in the form of a street party in North London. Thankfully, the sun was out, as were all the local residents, either looking curiously out of their windows or watching from the sides. It was a love letter to London, and seeing Virgil Abloh sat with Camden’s local community to enjoy a fashion show proves that fashion can always be more inclusive than we expect.
The designs were eclectic. Eschewing an over-arching theme, SS19’s offerings found a common thread in Martine Rose’s exceptional design standards, quality of production and experimental use of fabrics. There were spray-painted denim jeans, logo T-shirts with the designer’s cursive signature, leopard print, motocross-wear, heavy vintage-looking knitwear, off-beat Hawaiian shirts, leather bombers, gold lurex and, strikingly, transparent pants and jackets.
The word “SPEED” repeated throughout the collection, printed on sweaters and in contrasting white colorways up the side of various legwear. The font and logo for this motif took inspiration from a car mechanics garage in Tottenham near Rose’s former studio, another nod to the city that has championed the designer since her debut collection of ten shirts over a decade ago.