Last night Saint Laurent held its second standalone menswear fashion show in Malibu, California. Following up on last season’s show in New York City—replete with a breathtaking view of the modern NYC skyline—creative director Anthony Vaccarello headed westward for Spring/Summer 2020, replacing a metropolitan setting with the tranquil waves and jagged coasts of California.
Taking over Paradise Cove, a mini-getaway located just off the Pacific Coast Highway, Saint Laurent once again teamed up with famed producer and designer Alexandre de Betak to take over the resort’s private beach. A jet-black wooden runway was installed in the sand, set to a shimmering reflective backdrop and plenty of bright lights to accentuate the mood.
The collection is inspired by the style of famed Rolling Stones frontman Mick Jagger, whose mid-70s style mixed elements of glam rock, bohemian fashion, and a healthy dose of gender-fluid dressing. Jagger even allowed Vaccarrello to look through some of his vintage Yves Saint Laurent pieces from the era, giving the collection a further sense of authenticity.
Standout pieces included the tailoring, now cut a bit looser and in glam-rock appropriate materials like shimmering pinstripes and masculine donegal tweeds tempered with glittery tones. Voluminous trousers also channel Jagger’s ’70s style while taking the house’s slim silhouettes in a totally new direction.
Of course, no Malibu fashion show would be complete without an array of star-studded guests. That included recent Saint Laurent campaign star Keanu Reeves, whose muted black ensemble and shoulder-length mane felt especially on-brand for the John Wick 3 star. Lakeith Stanfield also pulled up in an embroidered olive green short-sleeve camp shirt, the go-to shirt of the season. Also in attendance were Luka Sabbatt—opting to tap the collection’s more cowboy undertones, skater Evan Mock whose shock of pink hair complemented his look, and 21 Savage, rocking Saint Laurent’s trademark skinny jeans in white, and a fringed suede jacket in dusty pink with no shirt underneath.
As the show began to wrap up, the waves began crashing ever closer to the runway, signalling the changing of the tide. The collection may signal a similar shift for Saint Laurent’s menswear, tapping different eras of rock-and-roll and also experimenting with newer fits for the season. In addition, the label is opening a new retail concept this month in Beverly Hills. Called Saint Laurent Rive Droite, it will not only house the new collection, but limited-edition tchotchkes and souvenirs ranging from lighters, matches, and notebooks. For many years now, Saint Laurent’s signature aesthetic has embedded itself as a natural part of the Los Angeles uniform, so a little change now is definitely welcome.
- Photographer: Thomas Welch