On the inaugural day of Copenhagen Fashion Week, Tonsure unveiled its Fall/Winter 2016 collection in the Danish capital’s grandiose town hall. A few political issues meant the label was forced to exclude several of the collection’s pieces that were created in partnership with Copenhagen Fur – including a $30,000 patchwork mink and seal overcoat – but that didn’t stop the brand’s collection from being greeted with rapturous applause from the many, many industry insiders (and the Crown Princess of Denmark) in attendance.
Furthering the ’70s nostalgia that’s gripping the menswear industry these days, Tonsure took inspiration from interior furnishings, with a notable selection of garments and showpieces imbued with traditional Swedish rag rugs. “I just imagined this old person who’s been collecting and gathering things for a lifetime,” the brand’s designer Malte Flagstad explained backstage. “I like to look back, not ahead, when it comes to inspiration.”
The more straightforward end of Tonsure’s garments were crafted from an array of archival Italian fabrics, with a healthy smattering of blanket-striped and camel-hued wools. Sky blue PU-coated wool shearlings – there’s the ’70s again – packed a punch, likewise the rust-hued macs made in collaboration with Scottish outerwear OGs Hancock. Double-breasted camel suiting, the sort of thing coked-up millionaires wore in the ’80s, was dragged into the present day thanks to tonal buttons and relaxed, baggy trousers.
Taking inspiration from a Swedish carpet isn’t exactly the most obvious (or logical) move for a young label to make, so it’s a blessing that Tonsure is still in possession of those innate design sensibilities that have made Danish brands world famous. The shaggy carpet pieces looked at best out of place and at worst gimmicky. Good thing Tonsure managed to salvage things with a healthy dose of no-fuss, highly-wearable menswear.
- Photographer: Eva Al Desnudo / Highsnobiety.com