Chinese designer Xander Zhou is rapidly becoming a highlight on the London Fashion Week Men's circuit. Bristling with abstract futuristic concepts, Zhou's FW19 show leaned into the unknown, with curious yeti-like creatures carrying their furry offspring, flippered models, clones, some unnerving prosthetics, and, above all, a very impressive collection.
Obfuscating fine garments with fearful theatrics is a theme we've seen before from Zhou. As the designer tells Highsnobiety after the show, "It's my fantasy, my fears of the world, and fears of myself. I'm excited about the future, but I'm also worried about it."
In spite of the big showpieces and conceptual strangeness, Zhou showed his knack for creating statement pieces that sit well in the landscape of modern menswear, including beautiful long-sleeved knitwear, graphic polo necks, short-sleeved shirts, transparent coats, and shiny leather pants.
If we cast our mind back to the designer's SS19 show in June last year, we'll remember teenage boys with pregnant bellies. This season, we saw hairy beasts carrying their offspring. Although he denies any connection between the two collections — "The whole thing is about evolution" — what's apparent is that Zhou's world and the clothes in which he decks out his fashionable mutants are getting all the more wearable with every passing season.
Also at LFWM, Daniel W. Fletcher explored British identity from the North of England