Buzzy Parisian label Y/Project, helmed by designer Glenn Martens, showed its latest womenswear effort for FW17 in Paris last night, and the collection offered a nod to the opulence of historic royalty.
Elongated sleeves were regal in proportion and cut, silhouettes were sweeping and dramatic and colors were rich, golden and shimmery. The brand blurred Marie Antoinette’s haughtiness and MC Hammer’s eccentricity (those jeans laced back and front with gold chains screamed ‘90s rap vibes).
Given that the brand’s FW17 menswear show also riffed on Tudor-esque vibes, it does beg the question as to why the brand doesn’t just mix its men’s and women’s offerings into a singular show?
Despite all the ornate decoration and emphasis on epic volume, everything was surprisingly wearable. The super boxy leather trench, in a deep shade of plum and cinched in at the waist, was standout. A high-neck, ribbed knitwear with shoulder pads and theatrical bell sleeves, belted tight at the waist with mustard cords indulged ‘80s Normcore with some easy glamor.
Though it was a great look, it marked a curious deviation from a collection that otherwise had a clear-cut aesthetic focus on reimagining ceremonial dress with the contemporary codes of the street. Either way, it was all delicious.
For more women’s FW17 coverage, check out what went down at Saint Laurent’s FW17 show.