Fashion’s long-term problematic body diversity issue is no secret.
For years the industry’s unwillingness to switch from the stick-thin status quo has proven a sore point, and even when brands have attempted to cast a more diverse range of sizes in both their campaigns and shows, it’s felt more like box-ticking than it has a permanent change.
Historically, fashion has always liked its models stick-thin, and while that in itself remains a problem the over-arching concern remains the lack of varying shapes and sizes of models sent down the runway on the whole, something especially pertinent over Fashion Month Fall/Winter 2023.
According to a study, only 31 out of the 3,200 models cast at New York Fashion Week FW23 were considered “plus size,” compared to 49 out of the 4,000 models at NYFW SS23.
While it wasn’t all about conforming to norms in the Big Apple — take Precious Lee closing Thom Browne for example, or Coach’s mid- and plus-size runway models — the casting figures undeniably suggest a backwards step.
At both Milan, diversity was at a premium, too.
According to a report from The Fashion Search Engine, Milan’s five-day schedule saw 77% fewer "curvy" models compared to that of London the week before.
Paris too was in lamentably short supply of body diversity.
Labels like Valentino, Chloé, and Ottolinger cast models of all shapes and sizes throughout 2022 but reverted back to the status quo this season. Ester Manas – the eponymous label founded by its namesake and partner Balthazar Delepierre – was one of the few brands to showcase real cultural awareness, something its become renowned for since its inception in 2019.
In truth, London really is leading the way when it comes to body diversity on the whole.
From S.S.DALEY’s plus-sized male models and Bökh Xuesong’s caveman-inspired Central Saint Martins graduate show to Sinéad O’Dwyer’s ongoing rally against sample-size-oriented design logic, London is pioneering representation across the board with a penchant for inclusivity unrivaled amongst its fellow fashion weeks.
That being said, this isn’t anything new. During SS23’s shows last year, London Fashion Week played host to Brazilian-born designer Karoline Vitto’s show, made up entirely of "curve" models, and the dozen models cast by Madeleine Østlie, who all ranged from sizes 12 to 20.
When it comes to representation, it's clear to see just how much further indie labels like Vitto and Østlie are (amongst others), compared to the luxury giants.
Without playing host to said labels (LV, Prada, Gucci, etc.), London is able to give platforms to more inclusive designers, brings in more nuanced and representative casting across the board. But at what cost?
According to a 2019 McKinsey report, a 10-15 minute fashion show can cost anywhere from $200,000 to over $1 million. But with these expenses comes a greater value in terms of financial pull, something London arguably lacks compared to the others.
What the matter really boils down to is a balancing act of monetary heft vs. cultural impact. What London lacks in the former, it certainly makes up for in the latter.
However, until the rest of the industry joins London Fashion Week in realizing that inclusivity and diversity isn’t just an option but a necessity, the issue will always remain exactly that: an option.
