When Hermès presented its Autumn-Winter 2023 Men’s show “Walking on Air” last Thursday, September 14, the luxury French Maison took its own theme as literally as possible. Despite notable technological advances, we haven’t unlocked the ability to walk on air (yet), leaving Hermès no choice but to choose the next best thing –– The Skylight at the Refinery.
The venue, located on the top floor of the newly renovated Domino Sugar Factory, gave models a runway backdropped by a richly hued Manhattan skyline at sunset. The 141-year-old former sugar refinery is located in the once-industrial neighborhood of Williamsburg, Brooklyn, and was recently restored by developer Two Trees to house office space, retail stores, and, apparently, fashion shows, thanks to Hermès, whose show was the debut event at the new Skylight venue.
From sugar milling to luxury fashion–– who would’ve thought?
The collection, created under the aegis of Véronique Nichanian, the Artistic Director of the Hermès Men’s Universe, who was tasked with closing this installment of NYFW, and did so with a big bang. An entourage of star-studded attendees graced the front row –– Matt Damon, Evan Mock, and Nina Dobrev –– making the whole affair more of a red carpet than runway.
From the AD100 Interior Designer Andre Mellon to BMX Athlete Nigel Sylvester to Academy Award-Winning Filmmaker Taika Waititi, and even Top US Tennis Pro Taylor Fritz, these cameos on the catwalk brought a richness befitting the cosmopolitan the setting. The smoky colors of the garments –– fog, charcoal, coffee, caramel –– belong to the palette of colder months and feel almost out of place when set against the softly lit skyline.
Underneath the glass dome and against the floor-to-ceiling windows, Nichanian’s clothes appeared both delicate and sharp. With one of the longest tenures in fashion history, measuring 35 years at Hermès (and counting), Nichanian is no novice when it comes to parading designs down the runway. Made for ‘Walking Men’ as described by the Hermès Homme press release, the show boasted shearling coats and tailored trenches, along with tonal tartan printed on leather.
For the Autumn-Winter 2023 collection, Nichanian drew inspiration from metropolises, like New York. Pieces from the collection nod to the urban terrain of these cities and the skyscrapers that consume them, evident with the recurring motifs of braided leather and topstitching throughout.
Nichanian’s pieces were created to contradict; supple calfskin shelters soft woolen knits; gentle draping challenges crisp canvas, all whilst maintaining an air of timelessness and preserving innovation.
After the show concluded guests were shown to a soiree of cocktails, small bites, and live music, including a surprise performance by Kim Gordon hosted two floors up –– a perfect terminus to an evening spent on cloud nine, where invitees had the chance to experience themselves what it’s like to “walk on air.”
