KENZO artistic director NIGO is a well-documented lover of all things retro, varsity jackets, Peanuts memorabilia, and more. His extensive collection of vintage denim (rumored to be hundreds of garments) clothing was even exhibited at the Bunka Gakuen Costume Museum last year.
That NIGO should again join forces with iconic American denim brand Levi’s for a collab makes all the sense in the world. He’s done it before, in fact. First for a Human Made collab in 2022, then for the 150th anniversary of the Levi’s 501 in 2023 under his name. But KENZO and Levi’s? It’s a dream come true.
Levi’s and luxury fashion are a rare, but welcome sight. The iconic brand previously revived their 517 boot-cut jeans from obscurity with Valentino, and handed over vintage pieces from the ‘80s to be upcycled by hand with Miu Miu. KENZO x Levi’s is the most ambitious collection yet, presenting more than just customized versions of the same silhouettes.
NIGO’s KENZO x Levi’s collab, available via KENZO and Levi’s websites and select retail stores, celebrates Americana unabashedly. Denim on denim is encouraged. So are boxy dark washed carpenter jackets, featuring a simple KENZO patch on the back. There are also staple pieces like overalls, button-up shirts, and (of course) jeans with added suspenders.
The stars of the collection are the cowboy garments. Nigo’s affinity for American iconography shows in a meticulously detailed jacket with brown leather fringe along the front, back, and sleeves. A coordinating red bandana has KENZO and Levi’s branding and drawings of cowboys, saddles, and boots with looping lassos.
I have my eye on the vibrant silk Western-inspired jacket with a flower embroidered on the back, for the days I don’t feel like going full cowboy (which is rarely, but it’s good to be prepared). For those looking to go full swanky Western, there’s a silky red jacket with KENZO’s classic flower embroidery on the back. Its denim counterpart has distressing at the hem.
I was also pleasantly surprised to see a button-up sleeveless denim dress that could double as a long vest for layering because it’s easy for the fabric to be too stiff to allow for a flattering dress. And then for the business-minded cowboys, there’s a crisp blazer whose lapels show off the contrasting color of the unwashed denim.
Western-wear has evolved over time from costume to chic. Most recently, Willy Chavarria paid homage to Chicano cowboys in his Spring/Summer 2024 collection, for instance, with exquisitely detailed button-ups and a reimagined ranchero hat. This Levi’s x KENZO collaboration scratches the yeehaw itch in my heart, fringe and all, making a strong case for breaking the taboo of the Canadian tuxedo.
