Typically, summations of Christophe Lemaire's eponymous clothing label toss around words like "minimalist" with gusto. And, while those kinda implications aren't wrong — Lemaire consistently deliver exquisite, clean lines and silhouettes that stroll the line between prim sophistication and baggy insouciance — I believe that they at least partially sell the designer's thought process short.
Like, certainly, you could describe Lemaire's Spring/Summer 2024 collection presented as a co-ed runway during Paris Fashion Week Men's, as minimalist, elegant, beautifully drapey. I mean, it definitely is.
But there's more to Lemaire SS24 and it's revealed with a studied survey of the luscious clothes therein.
For instance, Lemaire cites the act of travel as a key inspiration for SS24, including a recent trip to Vietnam undertaken by Lemaire and his partner, French-Vietnamese Lemaire Women's designer Sarah-Linh Tran.
You can see this play out in the transformable clothes adjusted by ties, made weather-appropriate by hoods, or slung over the wearer's head like a weatherproof tarpaulin, channeling both traditional Southeast Asian apparel codes and applications necessary for the contemporary day-to-day.
Often, these motifs meld across a handful of pieces: adjustability informs many-pocketed vests that hearken back to the stuff worn by gumshoe reporters of yesteryear — a common and cool-looking microtrend this season — while the quick-dry utility of a woven mesh shoulder bag is reflective of historic artisans.
Lemaire's press release cites a desire to dress "the modern nomad" and SS24 achieves this through approachable clothes meant to be adjusted to best suit the wearer's needs, whether through the aforementioned ties that cinch waists or relaxed trousers that can be cuffed as the situation demands.
In an era where minimalist elegance is so often synonymous with stodginess, it's heartening that Lemaire is still tinkering with texture and shape.
As often as some garments present as crisply starched, others look lived-in, wrinkled. Lemaire isn't alone in dabbling with the softened, pre-loved look and I say let's keep the ball rolling.
Anything to get away from the poised perfection presented by so many other so-called luxury labels. Clothes are meant to be worn; Lemaire knows this.
