Manhattan’s iconic Woolworth building is designed to dwarf everything and everyone that passes through; its dazzling grand arcade is a behemoth on its own. Willy Chavarria found a way to fill that space, filling the art deco interiors’ gaps with exaggerated silhouettes.
With each year, Chavarria’s vision has only gotten more ambitious. His streetwear focus always had a distinct Chicano edge, marrying baggy bottoms with exquisitely tailored shirts and his calling card, the graphic tee.
Chavarria’s Spring/Summer 2022 collection was a turning point for the designer, as it introduced his show-stopping wide-leg cinched trousers and lethal oversized lapels.
His brand of streetwear exploded in a head-on collision with the historical elegance of Mexican fashion, and each garment told tales of colonization, youth, and the Californian streets he grew up on.
For Spring/Summer 2024 , Chavarria returned to New York to unveil a collection that takes high-low to new heights. He explored school uniform chic with shorts that graze just below the knee paired with cross-emblazoned knits.
Billowing trousers are paired with athletic jackets, oxford shoes, and knee-high socks, evocative of after-school corner store-runs when the academic uniform is shoved into a backpack.
The collection was rich with romance, making the Woolworth building a perfect arena. Gigantic roses perched atop the models’ breasts; pops of sequins and silks balance out breezy linen and recycled fabrics. An all-white ensemble adorned with a large bow also made its way down the runway, reminiscent of a wedding procession.
Chavarria’s Chicano roots are unmissable in all of his work. His SS24 collection is a love letter to the Californian climate that transformed Mexican working class aesthetics into a regional style.
He honors the iconic zoot suit and distorts the proportions further with billowing jacket panels and puffy sleeves. Even his undergarments, like loose-fitting tank tops, tell tales of sweat and sacrifice.
This season, Chavarria also collaborated with tequila brand Don Julio to offer his take on the classic ranchero hat, paired with a relaxed button-up shirt and trousers.
While we’re on the subject of California, Compton-bred rapper YG was one of the most notable faces seen on the runway, draped in an all-black oversized ensemble that nearly obscured his signature white loafers.
